I tried to change a rotor on a 96 EX using the slide hammer method. Wouldnt come off. So I pulled it as an assembly and figured out that the bearing no longer has grease. My guess is the previous driver got it hot and melted all the grease out of it. Turns fine and smooth but dry, it needs to be replaced. It would have been awesome if I could have injected it or something but no luck. I had to put it all back together so the car didnt block the driveway and I could order parts.

I cannot get this hub out of this bearing and do not have a press. I tried a puller and impact wrench but no luck.

the local stores want 175 for the assembly and I see it on ebay for 60 and more and less. Can someone recommend a reasonable priced solution or a front end bearing manufacturer whose parts will last.

Im not interested in retro fitting since these cars are my kids and are driven less than 5k a year plus I just bought a rotor today. The previous owner lost a pad and kept driving through the rotor. It definitly got hot. The piston in the caliper came out so far it leaked brake fluid out. No brakes.

Thanks!

 

If it was me, and i've already done this, I would swap the hub and bearing for the ROH acura cl 2.3 version which puts the rotor in front of the hub instead of behind it, making rotor replacement as easy and removing two screws and taking the rotor off.

You can get the kit at tasauto.com

However, your other option is to remove the knuckle and take it to a shop that will charge $30 or so to pull the hub and bearing off the knuckle and install the new bearing.

I have a shop that I use to replace wheel bearing on my cars and he charges $30 but I usually shoot him $35 cause he's a nice guy.

It is possible to remove the hub yourself by threading in the 4 bolts a little and then using a hammer to tap each bolt in a crisscross pattern until the hub pulls itself out of the knuckle. I haven't had to do this since I had the ROH conversion done though.

Pulling the bearing out of the hub, especially when the bearing is bad, will leave the race on the hub which is a real bitch to remove unless you have a shop that will do it for you and have done it countless times.

 

You can use a hub removal tool to pull the hub and outer bearing race off. Then remove the four bolts for the bearing assembly and we use a Snap-On air hammer to drive the bearing assembly out. In the rare event that does not work we will remove the knuckle and press it out. As far as the outer bearing race goes we use a cutoff wheel to cut through as much of the race as possible without cutting the hub and then use an air chisel to split it and remove it. Always wear safety glasses and a flack/heavy jacket when pressing or air hammering bear races because down to their hardness they are very brittle and can/will explode in to razor sharp pieces that hurt like a ... Sand out the knuckle assembly so that the new bearing goes in by hand as they are bolted in not pressed in.

 

Do yourself a favor and get the good bearing set, I learned my lesson on my 98 Accord, I bought the Amazon part for 35-40$ and ended up having it go bad again 7 or 8 months later.
I just would not get anything other than a "Name Brand" bearing assembly. Timken, Moog, SKF, after that experience.

 

I need to locate this hub tool. A slide hammer wouldnt touch it. A 3 jaw puller wouldnt touch it. I think it needs a good press but I dont have one nor want another tool to trip over. I found a replacement timkin bearing which should last a while. The old machine shops in my area have gone away. Its sad cause I cannot even get a rotor turned anymore. Thanks for the info!




If anyone did that hub conversion and has this tool MATCO part # LT825 and wants to sell it give me a shout.

 

This is a job that can be done at home, but without the correct tools it's ugly. Harbor freight has a good tool to press the bearings on FWD Front Wheel Bearing Adapters and this little gem can be used to grab a hold of the bearing race to remove it Bearing Splitter & Large Bearing Separator so you can use the above tool to install the new bearing.

Of course all these tools will cost you a lot more than just bringing the bearing and hub to a local shop and have them remove the race and press on the bearing. You don't need a "machine" shop, your local garage usually has a press.

 

It seems every time I work on a honda its ugly. I did a timing belt change last weekend and it had the old style tensioning bolt on it. Stripped and after hours of everything from vise grips to pipe wrenches ended up cutting it off with an air chisel and replacing the stud. But they do keep going!

 

This Eric the Car Guy youtube video: FEDrioMDe1k

No press required. Worked for me.