I've been suffering through a couple of Fit's over the last few years (but the loaner 2016 wasn't ...horrible). After family decisions to make my father in law get a mobility Odyssey - my wife got his 2013 EX-L, auto trans, with all the trimmings at 7,500 miles. A few scratches from walkers, retirement home parking handicaps... but have become fond of the car over the last few months. It's sort of perfect, broken in but has some go to it.
It was a few months of driving it before I looked up the spec's on it.
Sure, there were the times when someone who doesn't deserve a license was using their adaptive cruise control to tailgate me at 85mph on the freeway while reading their tablet... give it some gas, get to 100 and bye, bye.
Then there was the time where I zipped passed a line of cars waiting behind someone who was probably also reading the o so important text message. Suddenly I have two 3 series BMW's, one an M class, the other obviously a modified 335i... and they want to race? Dude, nice ride, but I'm in a Honda. I didn't entertain the idea but it was nice to see them open their cars wide open.

I don't want to draw attention, but getting the HP out of the 270's up to 320 is what I have in mind. Not looking for my exhaust sound to impress anyone. Far from it. This car came with single exhaust. First thing is to improve air intake... but have run across references the remote mounted KLN filter does not make a difference. Next, exhaust... for the most part I only see axle back aftermarket parts for the sedan. Designed for sound? Not looking for attention... just that... huh, that Honda without a V6 badge on it just went bye-bye. Is the pipe diameter from cat on back sufficient? Did the Honda engineers decide to make it right?

Consistent upper 13's in the quarter and under 5.5 to sixty a reality without going to extremes? Oh yeah, I like ditching the follower with adaptive cruise control as mentioned... so a jump from 75 to 120 as needed.

Musings of someone who is impressed at his first Honda with some punch. It's still a little short for someone over 6' but I could get used to it.

 

Don't think you'll get to the HP to the 320 with "bolt on parts". You might look around for upgraded J Pipes for the v6 for better exhaust breathing.

 

Now I am even more impressed. It's a 4 cylinder. So guessing I'm not coming across as the brightest of people right now.
I had asked the Honda service tech and he mentioned he had done a cat back and intake on a different model and dyno tested it and only ended up with 10 more HP.

Honda tech at dealer suggested a chip from Hondata which I haven't looked into.
Welding stainless tube is within my skill set. I know people who own a tube bending business who are always looking for something "fun". I have never attached to an existing exhaust so would prefer to have someone else lift the car and finish a professional installation.
After looking under the hood am inclined to beef up the sway bar.
I've read the claims from KLN. The car now has 17,500 miles (10,000 miles since late February!) and will need to take it in for a service next week before a summer road trip west... Texas, New Mexico, Colorado and back.

Both the service the service person and I are very big fans of the tuned BMW *.35i platform. May go that way someday... if not maybe a V6 Accord... or realize that this 4 cylinder is "enough".

Having trouble believing the power. Maybe I have a carefully broken in motor under the hood on the + side of +/- 5%.

Maybe intake and a chip for a birthday present.

 

Personally, I would just enjoy the ride as it is.

You can spend a lot of $'s and time with add on/mod's and never really get much real life HP gains. Not sure what the "cat back" exhaust cost but it gained ~10 HP?

 

I'm going to agree with Poorman, '...enjoy the ride as is'

CAI (cold air intake) are, in general, a waste of money unless you're simply wanting the sound that they produce. If a person wants a less restricted intake air flow, one can remove the baffles (a lot of time & labor involved) from the stock system.

Cat-back can be costly and the HP results are marginal... example: Honda adds twins to the LX when creating the Sport trim = claiming a 4 HP gain from 185 to 189

Remember, companies that produce 'chips' are doing so for only one reason = to make money for themselves

 

Almost spent the money but am going to enjoy it as it is.
So all of these claims of +5 or +10 hp for intakes are lies and people feel like they are going faster because of the sound?
Throttle body spacers as well I would assume...
But being air filter replacement time... K&N to to fit in the factory box a fair investment for a low mileage car?

+4 hp with factory dual exhaust, but added how much weight?

 

There are dyno tests that suggest an increase of HP with a C.A.I., remember though that tests can be bias and the gains announced only occur at max RPM.. not throughout the range.

K&N does make a good filter, but there are others on the market that are just as reliable and for less $. However, some people like the idea of only buying high priced items

One could do an online search for curb weight difference between a standard Accord LX and the Accord Sport and thus determine the weight of the cat-back dual. Understand though that there is also a weight difference between the manual transmission the LX and the CVT in the Sport... plus the Sport has larger wheels, fog lights, etc

Simply comparing the weight difference in the exhaust system, I would think it to be insignificant

 

I wouldn't say the "claims" of a few extra ponies (HP) are all false.

Just call me old and cheap. One, I don't like messing with the OE set up on a daily driver......I've got the Chevelle for that....if and when I get around to it

I'm just looking and thinking about the return on investment side of the equation. Yes a "good" - that is subjective - cat back exhaust system will free up a few HP and add the "butt feel" and sound. But you just dropped "X" to replace a working system to gain "Y".

If the air filter needs replacing, yes you can look into a "performance type" of replacement. Just be careful of the "oil type", you don't want too much oil on it as that extra oil will be pulled across the MAF sensor and over time will "gum" it up and cause issues. Most of the time you can use the special type of MAF cleaners and remove the "junk" and not have to replace the sensor.

In the end, it is your money and decision. I was only giving my "opinion" on the question.