knuckle on 94 accord lx sedan
#1
knuckle on 94 accord lx sedan
I had replace passenger side knuckle and torque spec the nuts, now the whole wheel is looses when I pull back and forth ? It seems it's still loose from the upper knuckle by the upper ball joint , did I do somthing wrong ? Please help I don't want to take it to a machanic
#2
I'd start by holding each movable joint (balljoint or hinge, etc) when shaking. You're trying to feel for the exact location where the looseness is located.
Taper stud of the upper balljoint not properly seated in the tapered hole in the knuckle?
Hinges at the inboard end of the upper control arm not bolted tight?
Taper stud of the upper balljoint not properly seated in the tapered hole in the knuckle?
Hinges at the inboard end of the upper control arm not bolted tight?
#3
I'd start by holding each movable joint (balljoint or hinge, etc) when shaking. You're trying to feel for the exact location where the looseness is located.
Taper stud of the upper balljoint not properly seated in the tapered hole in the knuckle?
Hinges at the inboard end of the upper control arm not bolted tight?
Taper stud of the upper balljoint not properly seated in the tapered hole in the knuckle?
Hinges at the inboard end of the upper control arm not bolted tight?
#4
The spring forces aren't transmitted across the upper balljoint like they are across the lower. So even if the car is sitting on the wheels, the upper balljoint is still not supporting any weight.
You said it's still loose at the upper control arm. Is that when the car is sitting on it's wheels? Or lifted in the air? Or both? Whenever you can feel the looseness, that's when you have to try to pinpoint the location of the looseness.
You said it's still loose at the upper control arm. Is that when the car is sitting on it's wheels? Or lifted in the air? Or both? Whenever you can feel the looseness, that's when you have to try to pinpoint the location of the looseness.
#5
The spring forces aren't transmitted across the upper balljoint like they are across the lower. So even if the car is sitting on the wheels, the upper balljoint is still not supporting any weight.
You said it's still loose at the upper control arm. Is that when the car is sitting on it's wheels? Or lifted in the air? Or both? Whenever you can feel the looseness, that's when you have to try to pinpoint the location of the looseness.
You said it's still loose at the upper control arm. Is that when the car is sitting on it's wheels? Or lifted in the air? Or both? Whenever you can feel the looseness, that's when you have to try to pinpoint the location of the looseness.
#6
Gotta figure that out for yourself. The fix depends on exactly what you find when you check it out.
If the taper pin of the upper balljoint is incorrectly seated in the tapered hole, or it's just plain loose, then you can rearrange it properly & tighten it.
But maybe the balljoint itself is loose (the ball being loose in it's socket). That needs a new balljoint. Which might mean a new control arm because I suspect it's built in.
Or something wrong with the wheel bearing, if that's where the looseness is located.
If the taper pin of the upper balljoint is incorrectly seated in the tapered hole, or it's just plain loose, then you can rearrange it properly & tighten it.
But maybe the balljoint itself is loose (the ball being loose in it's socket). That needs a new balljoint. Which might mean a new control arm because I suspect it's built in.
Or something wrong with the wheel bearing, if that's where the looseness is located.
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