2003 (7th Gen) SRI Installation
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2003 (7th Gen) SRI Installation - 4/5/2007 6:28:45 PM
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03Sleeper
Posts: 1941
Joined: 6/15/2006
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Intro: 03Sleeper here, bringing you my first guide: Injen RD1680p Short Ram Intake Installation. This is for the 2003 Honda Accord without the MAF sensor. It's quite easy to figure out if you have a MAF or not. Two key differences. First, you have have a strange rectangular object on the tube. There's the MAF. Second, you will have two clamps...one on top and bottom. Non-MAFs only have one clamp at the bottom and a large O-ring on top. Stumped me for a couple seconds...but whatever. Finally uploaded my pictures online...but better late than never, eh? Well, spring is rapidly approaching I setup my intake to SRI. Maryland is kinda wet and it's even worse for me because I live near the Harbor. Since there isn't a lot of these self-proclaimed guides out there...I will attempt to make one for HAF with pictures.
Step 1: Make sure the car is cooled down and set the parking brake. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Better safe, than sorry. Even better, remove the battery to access the stock airbox bolts. This allows your ECU to be reset and "relearn" the new intake. It's basically a screw and washer. Use a 10mm socket to remove. You also have to remove the bracket on top of the battery. Just unscrew the washer using the same 10mm socket...but not too much. You will find it is just a hook to keep the battery in place. Some Honda design...Anyways, there's an outer cover of the battery, lift that up. Next, lift the battery up. It's rather heavy...(stock).
  Look Ma! No Battery! 
Step Two: Removal of the intake air temperature sensor and disconnect of several inputs.
Disconnect several terminals located at the bottom of the throttle body tube. Disconnect the three and two "pronged" elements. There's also something sticking out of your throttle body tube. Wha-la! That's your intake air temperature sensor. Disconnect and remove. It's rather stuck in there, so get just lubricant and pliers and yank it out. I suggest covering the plastic part with a thin cloth so it does not get mangled.
 
Step Three: Removal of Throttle Body Tube
At the bottom there's a clamp. Remove it using a screwdriver. Next, there are two bolts that need to be removed to get rid of the stock airbox. One is deep inside, the other on the upper right corner of the airbox. It's apparent which ones need to be removed. WD-40 would save a lot of time...but if you're like me...simple dish soap can be enough lube to ease the aging blots out. The upper right airbox bolt is a lot easier to remove.
 
Step Three Point Five: If you're like me and loves to take stuff apart, I suggest you remove the four screws holding the airbox together to peer into the disgusting mess. Screaming like a barbarian after removal...optional. Screaming 300! TONIGHT WE DINE IN HELL!...mandatory.
  
Step Four: Looks like you can yank it out now, right? WRONG. Honda engineers cleverly placed a clip next to the stock airbox. Remove the clip. It doesn't matter if you break it, so I just clipped it off using wire cutters.
  Mr. Clip Meet Mr. Wire Cutter
Step Five: It's Lifting Time! Lift the entire airbox (if you didn't remove part by part) or lift the bottom half (if you removed it piece by piece). I say your car just lost about 3-4 pounds. There's a hose part leading into the resonator...just exert a little force to remove it WITH the airbox. Do NOT seperate it. Now take this chance to clean and/or marvel at how bulky the stock airbox was. You can also remove part of the resonator at this step. You will see two plastic tabs in near the battery terminal. Remove these using pliers, but don't break them. Lift up to disconnect the plastic cover and remove the upper plastic hose/pipe.
 
Step Six: This is where my instructions will differ. Injen has an ingenious re-routing of coolant lines, so put on your gloves. View the engine block. Notice the breather hose and then the PVC pipe. The PVC pipe is what we're after. Using pliers take the outer right clamp and move it in. Here's a tip that I found helpful. Using a flathead screwdriver, get under the breather pipe and apply some lube (dish soap) Then using two hands, one on the pliers and the other hand yanks on the pipe. It should come out rather quickly. Here's the part that may just a little messy, so have a rag on hand. When you disconnect the tubes off the PCV pipe, some coolant would flow out. Not a lot, but a little. Take the little pipe and stick it into the pre-chamber.
 
Step Seven: This is where I was stumped. In the Injen directions, it just said re-route the coolant line. Wow...thanks Injen. Thanks a lot. So after staring at my engine block...I noticed a coolant line that could be used. Look above at the PVC pipe. Notice the long pipe pointing down. Well, remove the rubber pipe connecting to that and re-route the coolant line closest to the throttle body to that! And Wha-La!
  
Step Eight: There's really nothing else to say here....except to fiddle around with the position of the intake. Injen....well, didn't make this easy for its customers by implementing an elbow grommet. I had a pain juggling the three points of connection: Onto the female vibra-mount located on the battery, the Throttle Body Opening, and the 02 sensor. Just find a position where all three are snugly fit. So connect the elbow piece first. Tighten the clampon the lower left, but leave the upper right clamp free. Next, re-install the battery (just reverse directions) and install the female vibra mount. 20 turns is more than enough. Take your primary intake (the weird shaped one) and place it into the elbow. Position it so it will reach the vibra mount and be accessible to any pipe connections. Re-install the 02 sensor and plug it in. Use a moderate force to shove that plastic sensor into place. Once intake in place take the upper clamp on the elbow and tighten. Take the smaller tube and plug it into the pre-chamber.
 
Step Nine: Take your cone filter and attach it onto the end of the intake. Tighten the clamp. Make sure all things are tight and snugly fit. Re-position if necessary and retighten clamps using screwdriver. Lastly, take her out for a spin and enjoy the dull roar around 3000-4000 rpm. And of course, the nice hiss and throttle body opening and closing sound.
Conclusion: Since I disconnected the battery entirely before I<
< Message edited by 03Sleeper -- 4/8/2007 6:56:51 PM >
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2003 Accord LX Sedan I4| 5AT 107000
Injen SRI w/ AEM Dryflow| DCSports Ceramic Headers| DENSO IK20 Sparks| CF Front Strut Bar| Pioneer TSG950M 6x9s| Alpine SPS17C2 6.5"| C-Tek Slotted/Drilled Rotors | Progress 24mm Rear Sway Bar
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