will these work for a 2001 honda accord v6 sedan lx?

Which light are you going to replace for your 2001 honda accord v6 sedan lx??

The '01 used 194/168 bulbs (wedge) for the courtesy (door), map and the trunk lights, and the dome light is a 31mm festoon bulb.

Pretty much if you pop off the cover and it looks like this
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/7718/resizef.jpg
It's a 31mm festoon bulb

If it looks like this
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/6403/638750.png
It's a 168 or 194 wedge bulb (I have used them interchangably with no negative results so far)

Note: The size of festoon bulbs does fluctuate by about one mm between models, but I think most Accords are 31mm.

thanks for the replies guys.

I was looking for changing the light on my cluster gauge. (Every single light in there.)

To: Peli:

I remember changing my tail light and its look like the 2nd picture.

So, I guess those are on the side of my door too?

The best thing to do is not to guess, but to open up and see whats in those light slots.. :)

Honda lists your door lights as 168, so that's what I'd go with. It's very easy to pop off the cover and take a quick peek though, just to be sure :)

Hi, Hondaaccordman, can you plz list the instruction on how to changes those light?
I try search it up, but no good outcome for me. I guess I'm just really bad at searching.

What is your model Accord? Most of them you can just use a small tipped flathead screwdriver to pop off the light cover and just pull the bulb out. Use a cloth to protect the plastic outside from being damaged. The bulb is a wedge so just pry it out. I recommend pulling the light fuse before you do so!

This is what mine looks like, and yours probably looks similar once you get the cover off. The two sets of prongs hold the bulb.
http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/9...6463542410.jpg

Good post with picture Peli :D

He shouldn't have any questions after that picture post..but I bet he will :)

Thanks Peli. Very nice of you. Appreciated!

No problem! Good luck.

You must keep in mind however, that although the price may seem intriguing, in some cases it may be wiser to buy a more expensive part, and thus have a guarantee that it will last longer, and the vendor will in fact be situated in your country, thus make changes to your order easier, and help with any problem which occurs!

Exactly. The difference between the lights I've received from Hong Kong seller and US sellers is astronomical. The price difference can range from $5-15 more per bulb, but you get faster shipping and I have yet to receive a bad bulb from a US seller, whereas I've had three packages arrive from HK that were dead on arrival. Now I'm happy to pay that extra bit to ensure I get higher quality and a seller that is closer and more willing to deal with issues I may have with a shipment. Peace of mind is worth $10 more per bulb :D

Odor?
 

I just bought the blue LEDs for my car.. Hopefully I won't have to deal with any issues with resistors as I don't have a soldering iron to solder resistors.. besides I don't understand resistors, they're annoying..

Anyone who did this know if you have to solder on resistors with the LEDs??

Nope! None of the cluster lights require resistors.

Hey guys I hate to tread on a thread without introducing myself first but I'm doing this mod for a friend and was wondering if anyone replaced the lights in the actual bezel? Its the lights in the slits that shine down on the gauges.. Looking to turn literally every light in his car, Also are T10's the same as a wedge 168/194?

Welcome Stompbox! I had replaced those "overhead" lights as well, but honestly you don't really need them. I found that replacing the cluster bulbs with really bright LEDs and then just removing the overheads make the gauges look much more dramatic. If you do wanna replace them though, they're T5 wedge bulbs.

Yes, T10 is the same as 168/194.

Awesome thanks for the quick reply and warm welcome!

Conversion complete!
 

This is my girl after full light conversion. White gauges, blue odometer, mostly red down the center but with custom color filters on a couple of the buttons. :D

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-dash-5146.jpg

Hey there guys, could someone tell me which lights are used for the a/c controls and how many there are (I'm guessing 2)

Manual climate control, or the automatic?
I have the manual climate control which has 3x T4 NEO WEDGE bulbs and 1 T5 wedge bulb.

I may have possibly ruined something trying to do this. Can't tell but I need some help.. Alright so the T10s don't work, I tried to get the housing of that bulb out and then put in the T10, I couldn't see with all the sun if they light up, put the old bulb back into the new wedge housing, praying I didn't destroy something. Now it says the brake lamp doesn't work, can't see the brake lamp because I can't depress the brake pedal and look at it at the same time. Also one of the blinkers doesn't work when I put in the LED bulb but it works fine with the regular bulb (so now one is green and one is blue). Once its night time I'll know if I screwed up anything else.

One more thing: the odometer light seems to turn on with the car, not with the car's lights.. so it turns on and stays on period, I don't know if that's normal or not, it may be. Last time that light worked was over five years ago until now..

Any thoughts on those two issues?? I seem to make this car worse every time I touch it..

sorry to hear about your troubles, I don't know honda specific if the odometer is supposed to do it but on the accord I used it didn't.

As for the t10, did you try turning them around? most led's are polar lights meaning one side is positive the other is negative, it sounds dumb but put the lights in hook up your harnesses again and turn it on... the bulbs that don't turn on will most likely need turned around in the socket.

For the brake light malfunction, this shouldn't have resulted from an LED swap unless you were messing with wires outside of taking the harnesses off. To depress the pedal I use my lacrosse stick but anything heavy enough can be put on your brake pedal to look... or just grab a friend/family member to do it

Thanks for the response man, I was much awaiting a response.. Ok so here's the update..

1) the odometer light stays on all the time, doesn't bother me since it works..

2) The side indicators don't work, well they do on the outside but not on the dash if I use the LEDs. Weird thing is they'll work on the dash like once or twice with the LED and then they won't show on the dash after that. But when I put the regular bulb back in works perfectly normally.

3) EDIT: I GOT ALL THE T10S TO WORK, YOUR IDEA OF FLIPPING THEM AROUND WAS WHAT DID IT.. YAAY THANKS MAN..

4) The brake light was apparently gone before I started working on this so unrelated I guess. Just panicked because I didn't know if it was gone before or after I touched things.. My fortune is incredibly awful, so I tend to panic.

5) Lastly, just noticed that the temp gauge is T7 bulb and although the T5 fits in that slot, it doesn't light up. So now everything is blue except for the green indicators (still don't work with LEDs) and the temp gauge..

EDIT: BLUE FOR THE MAIN GAUGES WAS A BAD IDEA. THE ORANGE NEEDLE DOESN'T GLOW.. OR DOES THAT MEAN THERE ARE NEEDLE LIGHTS THAT SUDDENLY STOPPED WORKING?? THE NEEDLE LIGHTS UP ON THE TEMP GAUGE WHICH IS STILL THE OLD BULB, COULDN'T CHANGE THAT AS IT WAS T7

And good lord I get a lot of cuts from doing this repeatedly..

Suggestions?? thanks again..

I'm new to the forum and still trying to find my way around. I have a 7th gen Accord and wanted to do this conversion if anyone has the information laid out in this format for the 7th gen I'd really appreciate it!

Is it necessary to install resistors when doing the led conversion?

Generally, LEDs will require resistors to limit the voltage going to them, as 12 volts will burn out most common LEDs. However, many sellers of LED conversion bulbs for cars have resistors built into them; you would have to verify.

I am betting there is a video on youtube somewhere. That said, I did it for the first time when I had my accord and I got the hang of it pretty quickly. I ran across some little issues but nothing was major, just small issues. As long as you can manage to get the gauge cluster out, you should be good. Someone on this forum can definitely help you out figure out the bulb size if you come across that as an issue.

Nice setup. How did you add power for the foot lighting? Did you get just a regular led strip off from ebay? Also, what are the custom filters made out of?

Geez, wish I had seen this thread before I dropped $100 on a full blue conversion from LEDautomotive! It looks nice, but I definitely could have saved some money.

Hello,
I know this is an old thread, but I just ran across it. I'm interested in doing an entire conversion to LED for the *interior* of my 2002 Accord EX 4-door. That includes door lights, dome, map, instrument cluster, A/C control (manual controls), and the cruise/moonroof switches. Does anyone have a breakdown of exactly which bulbs I need for what? I haven't been able to figure out which of the various "T" models are for what. I think I know which ones I need for the dome/door/map lights.

Thanks!

Update: Good news and bad news. Good news: I converted my interior door, dome, and visor lights to LED and that went fine. I'm also in the process of (as in I've ordered the parts for) converting my exterior lights to LED.

Bad news: I was doing the instrument cluster conversion today, and I seem to have burned up my cluster. :( Everything was going fine -- I was doing a couple of lights at a time, then testing to see if the lights worked, and if not, reversing them. As I was nearly done, I saw a thin wisp of smoke coming out of the top of the right side of the panel. I quickly disconnected everything, and I took the back panel off to expose the circuit board. Nothing looked burned, but I could smell burned solder near the right side. At this point, I'm afraid to plug it back in, so it looks like I'm buying a new gauge cluster. Guess I'll stick with the incandescent bulbs this time...

Anyone else had anything like this happen before? Any thoughts on what I may have done wrong?

An update: My instrument cluster is OK after all. Except, I think the fuel warning light circuit blew/melted. Nothing obvious on the circuit board, but that indicator no longer works (still has an incandescent bulb). The day after my last post, I decided to try the cluster again, and it worked, and didn't smoke. Yay!

So here's the latest on my LED conversion:

I'm trying to do basically the entire car. I started out with the interior lights: Dome, map lights, door courtesy lights, and vanity mirrors. No problems there.

Next, the instrument cluster. I bought the right quantities of red, amber, blue, and clear bulbs from ez-motoring.com (they didn't have green). That's mostly what I have in the cluster now, but I'm not very happy with them. The red bulbs don't stay tightly in the sockets, and the oil light has already fallen out twice. The white and amber ones are better. But also, the LEDs I got from them are all single-SMD lights, except for the T10 bulbs, which are 4-SMD. Single SMDs are fine for the small indicator lights, but not for lighting up a larger area. The far right side of the cluster, where the fuel and temperature gauges are, uses a T5 bulb for some reason instead of a T10. The single-SMD T5 bulb wasn't lighting that area up very well. Even the 4-SMD T10s tend to have hot spots. I found some multi-SMD 360-degree T5s at SuperBrightLEDS.com, and they also had single-SMD T5s in green! So I got 4 greens for the turn signals, Cruise, and immobilizer lights. Their bulbs stay in the sockets MUCH tighter. In fact, they push the edges of the bulb holder on the socket out a bit, so you have to rock the socket back and forth a bit to get it into the back of the cluster. Small price to pay for bulb security! The multi-SMD bulb lights up the odometer and the fuel/temp gauges SO much better than the single-SMD. I think it's 5 SMDs, or maybe 3, but the additional SMDs are on the sides, not the front, so it provides better illumination. I just ordered some T10 360-degree LEDs from them as well, for the other 3 gauge bulbs. In addition, I ordered a quantity of blue, red, and amber bulbs for the other instrument cluster lights to replace the not-very-secure bulbs from ez-motoring.

I'm also doing a conversion of the other dash lights (climate control, clock, cruise & sunroof buttons, and even the power window switch on the driver's door) once the parts come in.

Finally, the outside:

All bulbs except the headlights have been replaced with LED bulbs from SuperBrightLEDs.com. They're awesome! I did have to replace my turn signal flasher with an LED-compatible one, though. No problem, $14.03 at AutoZone and that's done. I ordered a set of 9006 and 9005 Putco LED headlamp bulbs from AutoAnything.com. They have the ballast built-in, so they're plug-and-play.

One side-effect of the LED brake light bulbs, though, is that since they draw less current, the brake lamp sensor thinks I have a burned out brake light, and the "brake lamp" indicator on the dash is lit up all the time. I found an electrical solution involving cutting a wire in the harness that runs through the trunk and grounding it somewhere, but that's beyond my comfort level, so my high-tech solution was to remove the clear plastic cover from the instrument cluster and put a piece of black electrical tape over the "brake lamp" indicator. Don't worry, it's not the "BRAKE" warning light that comes on when you have a brake problem or have the e-brake on... I would never cover that one up.

I'm anxious for my Putco headlamps to arrive, so I can complete the exterior conversion. Even now, with all of the changes made so far, the interior lighting has a fresh look that makes me feel like I have a new car! Who cares if it has 239K miles on it, LOL.

What about for 04 year

I know this thread is 10 years old, but I found the bulb sizes helpful in replacing my burnt out cluster bulbs in my '01 Accord. Thank you.