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-   -   front end damage (working thread) (https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/appearance-9/front-end-damage-working-thread-47969/)

rhamza161 06-09-2012 06:11 PM

Do you know if it is right or left hand threads?

Thanks, crispin, I hope it works after every thing is put back! That is the true test!

crispin 06-09-2012 06:58 PM


Originally Posted by rhamza161 (Post 284650)
Do you know if it is right or left hand threads?

Thanks, crispin, I hope it works after every thing is put back! That is the true test!

It is normal threads.

I think you will be fine, that is not really that bad of damage.

rhamza161 06-09-2012 08:01 PM

Alright, that sounds good to me. I'll give that a try tomorrow morning with an impact wrench.

rhamza161 06-10-2012 09:46 PM

Bought a high powered impact wrench (1000 ft/lb) and it finally got the pulley/bolt out after 5 minutes of continuous use. it was really in there tight! lol Will have to use some aluminum welding rod to fill a few small mistakes and re-thread a bolt hole that just was not going to work. but over all the motor is in great shape and should work perfectly once I find a rear motor mount bracket. When I find that I can put the motor back in and hook everything back up! Very excited to get this done!

This is the Impact Wrench that I ended up buying...I went around to 5 different stores to find a impact wrench 3/4 to 1/2 reducer and NO ONE sold them...except the place I bought the wrench from which happened to be on the other side of town. lol but I bought two sets because it is really far from me. This wrench should make getting it off at a later time a lot easier. (I already own the proper tools to replace the bolt in the pulley correctly). I had even called around to my friends who have worked on hondas before and none of them owned a 3/4 driver...sad thing is they all know I own one now and will be asking to use it!

I did drill out that old bolt. I tried to use a bolt remover but it just wouldn't come out...I ended up drilling a little to much and will need to either fill it and re-drill the hole or use a larger mount bolt. I think that is what I am going to do. I already have a bolt threading kit and the bolts are for sale at my local Ace Hardware. Should be pretty easy...lest hope.

rhamza161 06-11-2012 11:47 PM

I don't know how many of you have ever had the happen before, but the bolt in the motor block would not come out no matter what a tried...except drilling the motor block out larger than the bolt... I did use a bolt extractor but it kept pulling out. It finally came free with a drill bit! sadly I had a larger hole that I started with. However I went online first and found this product called alumrod (I think that is the name?) and was going to use that to fill the hole and re-thread it. However no where in town sells it, or at least not the welding shops I called/went to. They did however have aluminum tig welding wire and solid aluminum rods. I talked to them for a while and they said I need to shave the rod down until it is a tight fit into the hole and then weld the aluminium rod into place and then smooth the face off. So I did that tonight after working all day and going to the wrecking yard...I think it turned out pretty good. I'll take pictures tomorrow night when I get home. I hope it works out. If it doesn't hold I'll just make my own mounting bracket from high strength steel... _-_

At the wrecking yard I bought both air bags. They were super easy to get out! I thought I was in for a really easy install on my car...I should have known better after the other trouble I've had with EVERY $%*&^&# screw I come to. I ended up having to break the old air bag out of my steering wheel and cutting the screw under the plastic plate behind the cruise control button off with a dremel tool and then using a punch to get the head out of the steering column! Very frustrating when the one at the wrecking yard took less than 10 seconds to remove. I think the owner of this car had an obsession or lifelong supply of locktight/super glue. Seriously. Off to bed now, but I plan on posting more pictures of the build process tomorrow night, stay tuned.

rhamza161 06-15-2012 06:46 PM

Filled the holes last night and am going to drill them out today before the sun goes down. I hope to have the engine in tomorrow with the wiring and everything else. Hopefully I remember where it all went! (if not I have two books and the internet at my hands so hopefully with all of that I can get it working again). I keep not finding an important part when I go to the different wrecking yards, mainly because none of the yards have the same year/model vehicle. Do you know the little plastic circle thing that goes into the driver and passenger windows? That's the piece. no one locally can order it either which means I need to find the name/part number and order it online.

crispin 06-16-2012 08:14 AM

Sounds like you are doing a very good job.

Post some pictures when you can.

TexasHonda 06-16-2012 09:43 AM

Apply heat to the crankshaft pulley bolt head w/ propane torch for 3-5 mins. This will help break the bolt loose. An air impact will work but requries one w/ at least 500 ft-lb rating. Harbor Freight has a special on one for $90 currently that I saw in a flyer, but you need an air compressor also.

Bolt is probably X-threaded is reason it's twisted off. I suggest getting a machine shop to tackle this job. Drill out and a thread insert will be necessary to maintain bolt size. If you want to DIY, check youtube videos on this subject. Lots of examples to learn from!

good luck

rhamza161 06-16-2012 11:34 PM

Well it seems that the 94 and 96 rear engine mounts are different, if only by a little bit. Got the eingine back into the compartment and found out that the mount bracket is about 3" too long. -_- I thought it was just due to the fact that my original was severely bent. Need to purchase one online and get it shipped. Took lots of pictures today, they will be uploading tonight and I'll try and post them tomorrow morning.

EDIT: I found the problem after a quick search...the difference is between an automatic and a manual trans. all the cars I took parts from were auto. Oh well. At least I can take it back for a full refund.

crispin 06-17-2012 08:19 AM

Yup the rear mount and the passenger side mount are different between the Auto and Manuals.

Being that I swapped my car from an Auto to a 5 speed, I know all the differences pretty good.


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