05 Accord LX 6½" Co-Ax Install w/Poor Man's Dynamat
 

Just sharing -
I used the poor man's Dynamat ... Peel & Seal 6-in x 300-in Aluminum Flashing

Purchased Polk Audio 6½" Co-Ax for $30 - Must have been a closeout.

Just used the factory (crappy wiring) cuz I'm not going to change my factory stereo. It's just too expensive, and I don't like the aftermarket install kit;s appearance.

Check it -

Hey Member..as long as it doesn't flap around in there and make that sound like saran wrap, then you did a good job.. ;)

WheelBrokerAng

nice.

next step is foam weatherstripping to recreate the factory seal to the door panel. that seal is crucial for midbass since the door panel is the front of the speaker enclosure (due to the large holes in the door).

The hole in the door doesn't affect the mid-bass too much. But for good measure, I will glue a big piece of foam rubber around the hole on the inside door skin.
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I actually bought a set of MB Quart components (FBS216)
and moved the Polk Co-Ax to the rear deck ...
The Mid-bass included the component set are quite a bit larger than the Polk Co-Axs, so I had to get a larger diameter mounting ring.

The tweeter was a little bit of a "rig job" ...

I used my Dremel to make a hole enough for the tweeter face to be exposed.
Then I hot melt glued the tweeter into place (I wrapped the tweeter with some painter's tape first, then a layer of electrical tape to protect it from the glue)
Spray adhesive was used to glue a piece of fiberglass screen (like your screen door to your house) to protect the tweeter dome.
Then wrapped the entire sail or mirror triangle with some speaker grill cloth. (Looks like hell from behind HAHA! But The front looks AIGHT)

It's incredible how much digital photography exposes all the imperfections!:eek: This triangle looks A LOT better with a naked eye.

Sound Stage is slightly forward, but I plan to install a center channel. That should make the stage: Front and Center.

Did it a little differently on the driver's door. The passenger door was the guinea pig. I'll go back and do the same to the passenger door when I get a little extra time.

the sail panels turned out pretty nice! well done.

those sail panels are very nice. I think if I ever do it again I will go that route. I like how the tweeter is hidden.

Nice! I am going to try the door deadening on Wednesday and appreciate the photos as I have the same year Accord. What is the white material you used for the large hole?

I used the factory "vapor barrier" ... Before I removed it entirely, I marked the plastic where I could reattach it. Cut it out and after the Peal & Seal was applied, I duct tapped the little pocket in place. I applied some more duct tape on the surface of the pocket to deaden the sound somewhat. It resonated / buzzed at certain frequencies when I tested the mid-bass prior to door panel installation.

I didn't take a pic before I removed the vapor barrier, but Crutchfield has a pic ...

personally, i prefer using something rigid to close up the hole to increase rigidity of the door panel and reduce the "drum head" effect that limp mass can have. course, if you get lucky it acts like a passive radiator.

I did mine tonight. I ran out of the GTMAT so I ran up to Lowe's and got a roll of the Peel and Seal. It seemed like it had lesser adhesive, but I liked working with the 6" rolls. Both front doors seem like they are nicely deadened. You can tell a big difference when you knock on them and then the rears.

GTMAT is a better product, but YGWYPF (You Get What You Pay For). I went the cheap route, because I don't want to spend so much on one "half-step up" from the factory stereo. The Peel & Seal stuff is by NO MEANS as good as GTMAT or other such products. So I apologize for misleading anyone. BUT it is a great alternative for the budget minded installer. P&S does a great job in single layer applications, but to reproduce the effects of GTMAT type products, you need to double up the P&S.
And you're correct, there isn't as much rubber thickness, but the adhesive on P&S STICKS LIKE HELL!

No I didn't think you were misleading at all. I was happy for the rec.

Are you up and running now and happy with the results?

Thanks! I am rockin' out (somewhat). The OEM stereo is lacking power, but its adequate. The tweeters in the sails (triangles) made a HUGE difference for sound stage imaging and sound quality. And the P&S made the door feel more significant. I still have to address the actual OEM stereo's issues. The left channel drops in amplitude slightly, and for no reason, returns to normal - weird. Also, the stupid backlights are all out. So I have a few issues with that still.

"Back in the day", I was used to some amazing car audio systems, but now it's not so much a priority. My system was my "business card" so I could show my handy-work and sound quality abilities. I could make money installing and selling car audio. But I'm too old and too fat to do this kind of work anymore. While doing my car recently, I realized just how difficult the work truly is! It sucks to get old, so don't do it! LOL

Nice. I'm 44 myself so I know what you mean about getting old lol. If you reconsider putting in a new head unit, the cubby kit option is not a bad choice. To me, it doesn't look weird at all, but I like the look of electronics. It also seems like it would be really simple to replace with the cubby and take the deck with you if you got a new car.