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2010 LX-S I4 Audio rebuild
Pics: http://photos.dammitdelevi.com/index.php/CarPC
Hey All: I drive a 2010 LX-S I4, and I'm right in the middle of replacing the head unit with a computer, which has become a project to replace the entire audio system before I even get to the computer part. I've never done anything like this with a car - I'm looking for advice. What I've done so far: * Remove the stock head unit * Install Metra Dash adapter (gives 2DIN opening) Discoveries/Thoughts/Madness: * I thought I had a discrete amp someplace besides in the head unit, but I don't, so I'll be buying one. * I thought I'd be plugging into with the stock sound harness, but the stock head unit's harness feeds all the uses some incredibly small wires (24awg?), and I don't think want to use any of that... which means I'll be rewiring all of the speakers. * Since I'm rewiring all of the speakers, it seems prudent to replace them with something better. * Since I'm going through all this trouble, I should install a subwoofer while I'm at it. Shopping List: I have a lot of interest in sound quality, and I'm willing to spend a bit to get it. The following list is what I came up with. I'd prefer not to spend significantly more than the cost of these components. Amp: JL Audio XD700/5 Front: Focal IS 165 Rear: Focal PC165 Sub: JL Audio 12W3v3-2 Sub Enclosure: Honda Accord 2008-09 Subwoofer Sub Box Enclosure | eBay Questions: * From what I can tell, the stock alternator produces 100 amps, which works out to 1200W? (12V * 100A = 1200W?) Do I have enough juice to power a 700W amp reliably without compromising the electrical system? * Will the amp I have be able to fully drive the components of the sound system? * Are there any issues with vertically mounting the amp to the sub enclosure? * Subwoofer sizing: The enclosure is 1.4 ft^3, the sub's ideal is 1.25 ft^3. Problems? * Should I expect any component size issues? Crutchfield tells me It'll all work... Thank you for your help! -Delevi |
Originally Posted by Delevi
(Post 271754)
Questions: * From what I can tell, the stock alternator produces 100 amps, which works out to 1200W? (12V * 100A = 1200W?) Do I have enough juice to power a 700W amp reliably without compromising the electrical system? The alternator outputs voltage at apx 14.4 volts. Unless you plan on playing your system up at the max for long periods of time you will be fine. * Will the amp I have be able to fully drive the components of the sound system? Yes * Are there any issues with vertically mounting the amp to the sub enclosure? Should be fine however the older JL Audio Slash series often broke from the vibrations of the Sub Box. I have not heard the same thing about the HD series. * Subwoofer sizing: The enclosure is 1.4 ft^3, the sub's ideal is 1.25 ft^3. Problems? No the size of the box is fine * Should I expect any component size issues? Crutchfield tells me It'll all work... If Crutchfield says it will fit it will. Are you buying your stuff from them? They do lead the industry in CS (IMHO) but are also the most expensive place to buy from. Thank you for your help! -Delevi |
Originally Posted by Crispin
Originally Posted by Delevi
* Should I expect any component size issues? Crutchfield tells me It'll all work...
If Crutchfield says it will fit it will. Are you buying your stuff from them? They do lead the industry in CS (IMHO) but are also the most expensive place to buy from. |
JL Audio XD700/5 (XD700-5) 5-Channel Class D XD Car Amplifier
Sonic is a very reputable company with excellent CS The JL Amp is abt $150 cheaper than cruchfield has is for. the focal speakers are the same I highly recommend that you use some soundener on your doors to seal them up better - it will help tremendously. like this Dynamat 10435 Four 12" x 36" PCS Xtreme Door Sound Dampening Kit |
Because of the ELD on the honda voltage is going to stay around 12.5 when driving. when the A/C kicks on it jumps to about 13 and about 14 with the ac and the headlights on.
I just got my voltmeter installed today and found that out while taking a drive. also reserve capacity is generally about 40 percent. which means if your factory alt is 100 amps. that 60 amps are for the car. 40 is for you. (that of course being everything running at once.) also you may want to look into mid bass or mid range drivers for the rear deck instead of coaxils. http://www.woofersetc.com/p-10164-6v...-speakers.aspx |
welcome to HAF!
sounds like a fun project! i agree that if sound quality is your goal, then you need more than just speakers. you need a good installation with airtight seals. think of the door as an enclosure (because it is) and seal it the same way you would a speaker box. you need foam seals on the front of the speaker to seal against the door, and seals between the speaker and the baffle. you want to seal the openings in the door metal - with sheet metal and screws. lastly, you want some sound deadening to get a minimum of 25-40% coverage. running new wire is a given with most sound systems. making secure connections is vital - given your carPC project, i hope you're good with a soldering iron. :) heat shrink is a good insulator. |
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