Alarm Recommendation
 

Hello, I'm moving to NY in a few days and I need to get an alarm installed in my 93 accord (10th Ann) mostly the car holds sentimental value to me..its got plenty of problems including the tranny...but the elctrical system is still going strong.

I'm looking for either the keyless entry system or perhaps and engine cut off switch...i hear the latter can mess up ur electrical system overtime? any recommendations would be appreciated..perhaps if you can tell me about price ranges...it'd be nice...i'll get it installed...won't be doing it myself. Any ideas to protect my old boy would be appreciated it. If anything out there exist where once the thieves take it and park it in their garage, it will blow up i think that would be my preference.

Thanks

DEI makes some good alarms. I went with Autopage and really like it.

The immobilizer bypass cannot hurt the car or electrical system.

Constant 12V+ Wire: White
Constant 12V+ Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Wire (+): Black/White
Starter Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Second Starter Wire (+): N/A
Start Wire Location: N/A
Ignition Wire (+): Black/Yellow
Ignition Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Second Ignition Wire: N/A
Second Ignition Wire Location: N/A
Accessory Wire: Black/Red
Accessory Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Second Accessory Wire: White/Red
Accessory Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Key Sense Wire (-): Red/White or Red/Black
Key Sense Location: Ignition harness or MICU, green plug, pin 13. The MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) is part of the under dash fuse/relay box. The plug(s) for the MICU is on the left side edge of the fuse/relay box.
Tachometer Wire: Blue/Red or Blue
Tachometer Wire Location: ECM/PCM. The ECM/PCM is on the front of the transmission tunnel. The connectors are on the passenger side. On the 4 cylinder models the tachometer wire is in the white 31 pin connector E, pin 25. On the 6 cylinder models it is in the gray connector A, pin 23. Can also go to any ignition coil and use the wire that is NOT black/white or black. Can also go to any fuel injector and use the wire that is NOT yellow/black.
Door Lock Wire (-): Pink/Black
Door Lock Wire Location: MICU, green plug, pin 25. The MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) is part of the underdash fuse/relay box. The plug(s) for the MICU is on the left side edge of the fuse/relay box. Meter this wire while pressing the passenger door lock switch.
Door Unlock Wire (-): Pink/Blue
Door Unlock Wire Location: MICU, green plug, pin 9. The MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) is part of the underdash fuse/relay box. The plug(s) for the MICU is on the left side edge of the fuse/relay box. Meter this wire while pressing the passenger door lock switch.
Door Trigger Wire (-): The LF door is green in a lt. green 16 pin plug, pin 15. The RF door is lt. green/red in a lt. green 14 pin plug, pin 12. The LR door is green/yellow in a lt. green 16 pin plug, pin 14. The RR door is green/white in a lt. green 14 pin plug, pin 13. Use all four wires and diode isolate each.
Door Trigger Wire Location: Back of Fuse Box.
Dome Supervision Wire: Green/Red
Dome Supervision Wire Location: Back of fuse box, light green 5 pin plug.
Headlights Wire (-): N/A
Headlights Wire Location: N/A
Parking Light Positive Wire (+): Red/Black
Parking Light Positive Wire Location: Top of fuse box, large white plug.
Parking Light Negative Wire (-): Red/Black
Parking Light Negative Wire Location: Headlight switch in column cover.
Trunk/Hatch Pin Wire (-): Blue/Black
Trunk/Hatch Pin Wire Location: MICU, green plug, pin 24. The MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) is part of the underdash fuse/relay box. The plug(s) for the MICU is on the left side edge of the fuse/relay box.
Hood Pin Wire (-): Yellow/Red to Green/Black
Hood Pin Wire Location: Hood pin switch in latch.
Trunk/Hatch Release Wire (+): Yellow/Green
Trunk/Hatch Release Wire Location: Harness to the rear of driver kick panel.
Factory Alarm Arm Wire: Blue/White to White/Red
Factory Alarm Arm Wire Location: Driver door module in door.
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): Black/Red to White
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: Driver door module in door.
Factory Alarm Disarm but No Unlock Wire (-): N/A
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: N/A
Horn Trigger Wire (-): Green/Yellow
Horn Trigger Wire Location: Steering Column
Brake Wire (+): White/Black
Brake Wire Location: Brake Pedal Switch
Emergency Parking Brake Wire (-): Green/Orange
Emergency Parking Brake Wire Location: Top of fuse box, large white plug.

Typical alarm installs cost around $200-$300 around here installed. You may pay more depending on the location. And nicer alarm models with more features, cost more. Mine is a two-way and informs me on it's status.

Some have a cellular interface so you can call your call to shut it down or start it, some have iPhone interfaces.

so im looking at a viper for 200. do all alarms come with a cut off swicth so that if the car is started without the key it will die? or is a kill switch a different thing? if so, would it do me any good to have them both installed or redundant?

i also want to make sure i dont compromise the electrical system with too many taps....

you are asking about a starter interrupt. any good alarm should include that.

i make my wire taps by removing insulation (not cutting wire) and soldering the new wire to it, then insulating with 3M Super 33+ electrical tape. this is a connection that will not compromise the wiring.

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i don't use the Scotch-Lok taps (i don't like them at all).