Car speakerss!
 

hey im looking to buy some car speakers for my 02 accord Coupe. i saw a few on crutchfield.com and was hoping to get some feedback on whats good and whats horrible.

Here are the links of what some people suggested me:

For my front doors:
Kenwood KFC-1664S 6-1/2" 3-way Speakers

For my rear Deck:
Sony XS-GT6937A 6 x 9" 3-Way Speakers

and a Pioneer DEH-2400UB Head unit.

Just looking for some feedback and maybe a little help on where i can get good speakers for a reasonable price.

Thx a lot!

you want front component speakers, not coaxial.

the Pioneer TSD series is good for the money. Crutchfield will include the required mounting adapters and speaker wire adapters.

I prefer Kenwood eXcelon head units over Pioneer.

I upgraded my stereo recently and here's what I can tell you.
1. Order up some Fatmat or Dynamat and seal and dampen the doors. I also stuffed polyester fill into the cavities of the door panel. Really helps with the bass.
2 I got the JBL power series 6.5 Coax from e-bay and they sound good, but a little bright, I should have probably went with the Infinitys for more natural upper mids.
Yes Keep Hope is right, get the components and replace the dash tweeters with the component set.
3. The OEM rear decks don't sound all that bad, if you are budgeting put the $ somewhere else till you give it a listening.
4. I got the JVC JVC KW-R900BT because I wanted iPhone and Bluetooth. I like it, but you need to use the USB cable for music because BT for music is narrow sounding.
This set up can get my ears ringing on the commute and that's loud enough for me.

good point. instead of buying front and rear coax, just get front components.

Thats actualy what i was thinking of doing in the begining. Because like you said the rear deck speakers arent so bad. But i have one thats sounding kinda funny. So maybe ill end up replacing them to.

And i dont understand the difference between coax and component. Do you mind giving me a link to good component? Thx

A co-ax has the tweeter mounted in the center of the mid-bass speaker, it's installed as a single unit.
In a Component system the tweeter is separate from the mid bass so that you can install the tweeter in a better location than the door panels.
The 6th Gen Accord Premium sound has tweeters in the dash near the lower left and lower right windshield, that would be replaced in an upgrade.

correct. also, component speakers use an external crossover network to divide frequencies between woofer and tweeter. they filter highs from the woofer and filter lows from the tweeter, and do this much better than a coax.

tweeter location is key. you don't want tweeters below your knees aimed at the floor. the dash corners are excellent locations for tweeters.

when installing components, you will need to run a new wire from the crossover to the tweeter (left and right separately). you can reuse factory wiring for door woofers - intercept it behind the head unit.

Yep I totally agree on using component speakers. Theyre not necessarily better than coaxials speakers (well until you get into the higher end sets) but the ability to use a better crossover thatll likely have some options for turning down the tweeter, will be really nice and really help the soundstage and overall sound quality.

As for which set to get, depends on how much you want to spend. The more the better cause audio is one of the few areas that you get what you pay for and a $500 set of speakers will sound much better than a $100 set.

Aaron!!!

Yes Im back! :D

Youve got another car audio nut around now! I had quite a bit of experience with my old 2007 and am having to start from scratch learning everything new with this '12. Not sure what Im going to do yet with it though. Got a beautiful P99 I invested in for my last ride but not sure I want to give up my LCD screen yet.

glad to have you back. your insight, lessons learned, and opinions are always welcome.

Install of components in an 02 accord is tedious.

Do it right and do it once:
1. Dampen both doors.
2. Use good equipment, HERTZ, FOCAL, AUDISON etc...
3. Knukonceptz wire, all zipped and shielded.

The baskets will inevitably be too large to clear the window, so you'll have to build a spacer to pull it out a bit.

the 98-02 accords are some of the easiest cars to work on, IMO. i can have the door panel off in about 45 seconds. I can have the HU out in about 90 seconds. You can easily run wire through the door boot (not so with later models using a molex plug).

you need a speaker adapter/space for almost every car, factory speakers have odd mounting points. at least the 98-02 used an actual metal basket speaker and not a plastic integrated speaker like later models. you could reuse the factory adapter if the new speaker is shallow enough - or cut out the rear portion.

Attachment 18045

Attachment 18046

a new mount can easily be made out of wood, then waterproofed (i used deadener here). you can gain 3/4" of depth with a baffle without needing to modify the door panel.
i used hurricane or t-nuts for driver mounting - MDF doesn't hold screws well.
Attachment 18047

I bolt the new baffle to the car.
Attachment 18048

then i cover everything (except mounting holes).
Attachment 18049

Agree with everything except the shielding part. Shielding will actually act like an antenna and can induce noise.

The 7th and 8th gen Accords are the ones that are the pain. Theyve got that oddball shaped opening and it almost guarantees you have to trim some sheet metal in order to get a 6.5" mid in there. Not a huge job as a Dremmel with a cut off wheel will do the job but still not as easy as some.

The 8th gen have the advantage in running wires into the door panel cause while theyve got a molex connector like the others, there is a lot of space in that connection so you can easily run speaker wire thru. My 7th gen, I had to drill holes.

as for pulling new wire through the door of a 1998-2002 Accord - see below

locate the single wire harness that feeds the passenger door
Attachment 18038

remove the harness. at this point you can pull it all the way out the factory opening, or just far enough to gain access for wire routing
Attachment 18039

keep track of it's location and orientation
Attachment 18040

pry the rubber boot from both bottom and top - pull the wire from the top enough to gain access to the cabin side of the rubber boot
Attachment 18041

Attachment 18042

route a metal rod through the wire bundle - make sure it is not sharp or it could compromise the wiring. you may need to make a slit in the rubber boot - the part that is inside the cabin
Attachment 18043

tape speaker wire to one side and pull it through - this is CL2 rated 12/2 wire
Attachment 18044


now you can feed the wire through the openings into the door and cabin. inside the door - use zip ties to secure the speaker wire to factory wire loom so it doesn't interfere with the window track. inside the cabin, route the wire so it is hidden in the dash - securing it to factory split loom every 12" or so.
make sure the rubber boots are fully seated - start on the back side and use a flat screwdriver to push in the rest. plug in the wire harness.