Having a very ODD problem after amp and sub install on 2011 accord.
I just installed a 10 inch sub and 1000 watt class d mono kenwood amp in my 2011 accord coupe ex. But i am having a very odd and annoying issue that i hope you guys could help me with.
I used a line out converter because i kept the factory head unit, and just unplugged the connector to the factory sub. For some reason when i give the car gas, whether driving, or just giving it small revs in park, when the rpms drop back down to idle, i get a loud BWWWAHHHHH out of the sub. Like a long deep bass note even if the volume is on 0. Even more odd, the noise goes away if i open a door. So if i leave a door open and rev the engine, the stereo sounds fine and there is no noise. But if i close the door it and rev it, or go drive, it makes the loud bass note that vibrates the whole car when the rpms drop. I ran the power wire from the battery + to the amp through the hood latch cable hole in the firewall. I used a 12v ignition power source as the remote wire. I then have the back speakers wired into the amp through a line out converter. For a ground i used a screw on the rear deck that holds down the car seat anchors. I tried 3 different line out converters, a different amp, and different remote wire source, and a different ground source, but nothing worked. I have no idea what is going on, and if you guys could help me i would greatly appreciate it. I used this same setup in my old 99 Saturn and had no issues. Used the same line out converter with the factory head unit and had no issues. |
another member was having the same problems. he has a 2009. he posted this and said that it fixed his problem.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/audio-visual-electronics-10/active-noise-cancelling-fix-issues-when-adding-sub-40076/ |
agreed, Active Noise Cancelling (ANC) strikes again. Luckily, it's an easy fix.
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I disconnected the rear deck mic and the noise went away. I just have a question reguarding the head unit. If i get an aftermarket head unit, can i keep the steering wheel controls and the blutooth? Or is the blutooth integrated with the stock head unit? Thanks.
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both are integrated with the head unit. some head units allow you to buy a PAC-Audio or similar interface for steering wheel controls. Bluetooth would need to be part of the new head unit.
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Thanks for all the help. Is there a thread on how to remove the factory head unit so i can install and aftermarket?
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This kit and instructions are for non-dual climate control. instructions are in the lower right corner.
http://www.scosche.com/ecom/download/HA1707DGB_ETB.pdf dual climate control http://www.scosche.com/ecom/download...CDGB_DCETB.pdf Metra doesn't have kits for these cars listed yet. Metra instructions include pictures of the radio removal. Scosche just gives instructions. both are dark gray. they have tan kits as well. |
a shop charge me to much money for the installtion and now im Having the same ODD problem after amp,speakers and sub install on 2011 accord sedan EX V-6
PLEASE HELP ! did you guys were able to fix the problem ? |
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ing-sub-40076/
this was his problem and it is probably yours too. |
Thank you
This forum is awsome !!!!
Thanks again |
Hey guys, I am new to this website and this install.
I know it is a fairly old thread but I was wondering, what type of line convertor did you use? Are there distinguishing factors between different line convertors? I have never installed a sub before and am having one shipped out early this week, I am attempting to buy all of the necessary parts before it arrives. It is a package with a sub/amp/wires. Thanks! |
Originally Posted by Tolson0123
(Post 261997)
Hey guys, I am new to this website and this install.
I know it is a fairly old thread but I was wondering, what type of line convertor did you use? Are there distinguishing factors between different line convertors? I have never installed a sub before and am having one shipped out early this week, I am attempting to buy all of the necessary parts before it arrives. It is a package with a sub/amp/wires. Thanks! |
Stereo problems in hondas
I have the fix for my 2014 Honda accord and what I had to do is unplug the noise cancellation box behind the dash and it fixed the loud bass noise you are getting.
Originally Posted by mgg4591
(Post 240393)
I just installed a 10 inch sub and 1000 watt class d mono kenwood amp in my 2011 accord coupe ex. But i am having a very odd and annoying issue that i hope you guys could help me with.
I used a line out converter because i kept the factory head unit, and just unplugged the connector to the factory sub. For some reason when i give the car gas, whether driving, or just giving it small revs in park, when the rpms drop back down to idle, i get a loud BWWWAHHHHH out of the sub. Like a long deep bass note even if the volume is on 0. Even more odd, the noise goes away if i open a door. So if i leave a door open and rev the engine, the stereo sounds fine and there is no noise. But if i close the door it and rev it, or go drive, it makes the loud bass note that vibrates the whole car when the rpms drop. I ran the power wire from the battery + to the amp through the hood latch cable hole in the firewall. I used a 12v ignition power source as the remote wire. I then have the back speakers wired into the amp through a line out converter. For a ground i used a screw on the rear deck that holds down the car seat anchors. I tried 3 different line out converters, a different amp, and different remote wire source, and a different ground source, but nothing worked. I have no idea what is going on, and if you guys could help me i would greatly appreciate it. I used this same setup in my old 99 Saturn and had no issues. Used the same line out converter with the factory head unit and had no issues. |
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