Looking for an electrical power source to power LCD monitor
 

Folks,

1) I need to power LCD monitor for rear view camera (do not want to use cigarette lighter as source)

2) Power interior LED lights for ambient lighting

3) Power exterior LED lights under the hood and in the front grille.

I am not able to find out from where do i draw electrical power.
I have seen some youtube videos where they cut existing wires to supply electricity to their needs.

I thought that there were unused outlets in fuse boxes. Is this where i should to go to?

Can you please give me a direction so i can do the above mods.

Thanks in advance

rpp.

first thing you need to decide is how you want them controlled

do you want them to be on when the ignition is off? yes or no
that will determine where you need to get power from.

LED's are trivial electrical loads, and can be added to damn near anything. you're only at 20mA per series string. you can use your courtesy illumination circuit since you are supplementing the incandescent bulbs with LED. You can intercept this circuit in the doors, headliner, under the hood, etc. where you see a lamp- you can use that circuit. this will allow the lights to be on whenever the lamps are on - car on or off.

the real trick from here is control. how do you want to turn them on?
I did LED interior lighting in a previous car. i replaced the lamps with LEDs so they came on when i opened the door, and also when i manually overrode the controls with my interior lighting knob. worked great. for the amp lights i used both LED and a lamp. the LED were automatic with courtesy lighting, the lamp was manual with the local switch.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...069_medium.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...083_medium.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...074_medium.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...081_medium.jpg



as far as the rear view camera, you'll need to run a wire, or power from the reverse lighting circuit. depends if the camera is instant on or not. regardless, you have to run wiring to the HU, so you can just run power with it (from the radio ignition circuit). that way the camera is on when the car is on, not just when the car is in reverse.

Thanks for your inputs. I could not follow everything that you suggested (i am an engineer but very new to auto electronics/DIY/mods)

I would like to the camera and video display to be ON when i start the car and should always be ON.

I plan to install the video display somewhere near the rear view mirror or near driver side visor. So, i think i should be able to run the power & video cable behind the visor -> side panel and down below the steering wheel/fuse box.

Can you please tell me again from
1) where would i be able to draw power for the video display? (first preference is do this without splicing any existing wires)
2) I would like to the camera to be always ON. So, supplying power from the backup lights would not help. Do you know what source would always have power when car is running (in the trunk area).

1) from radio ignition power, you have to splice the harness. It is a small load.
2) you have to run the video cable, run the power also, from radio ignition. Nothing back there is ignition, no need. Some of the lights may be ground switched, so they do have ignition 12V... But I recommend not messing with them.

Another option that doesn't require you cut factory wires is an "add-a-fuse". Radio fuse is a good spot.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

Most Autoparts stores sell them

Change in requirements.
 

Friends,

Change in load requirements.
I want to power these devices when the ignition switch is ON
1) Backup camera. I want it ON when ignition is ON (not just when in reverse)
2) LCD Monitor
3) Front facing camera (CarCameraDirect)
4) Cell Phone Charger (i don't want to use the cigarette lighter charger)
5) Interior LED lighting.

I am attaching the fuse diagram.
Please tell me where should i tap in add-on-fuse so i can power these devices.

With this many devices, install a new fuse block. You can get an ATO fuse block by Bussman for $10. It should be fed from the battery directly, fused there, and then relay switched from ignition.

Don't add load to any one factory wire, they were only sized for the load they serve.

http://www.rvplus.com/images/detailed/100/13855.gif

You can add other switches or relays downstream of this.

Fuse 23 should be ignition switched, it can power the relay coil.