you would need two for rear speakers. I dont know the frequency range of the rear factory speakers. Run a sweep and see how low they play. you may find that it would limit the speakers almost inoperable by removing the playable range.

 

Thanks!

I think I've got the bug now lol. I read your build thread. Really cool and thorough work. I think I am going to get that Alpine amp, deaden my doors, and get some decent components. Do you know the maximum depth speakers I can install in the doors?

 

i suspect that 2.25" is safe, and 2.5" of depth requires you build-up the mounting baffle.

 

Thanks. Then if the speakers are 2.4 and the mounting brackets extend by .5, will .5 inch thick foam weatherstripping suffice?

 

OK, I placed my order and I'm ready to try to do a budget front build. I have a feeling I will add a sub/amp to the rear later, but I am going to see how this turns out first. I am returning the JVC deck I bought and ordered this set up.

Alpine CDE-147BT head unit ($199.00 shipped from Crutchfield which includes cubby din kit and antenna extention)

Alpine KTP-445A - $99 Amazon
MB Quart OSC-216 Onyx Components -$76.45 Amazon
GTMAT Automotive Audio Dampening 50Mil Kit $25 Amazon
M-D Building Products Foam Tape .5 x .75 x 17 $5.45 Amazon
Xscorpion USPA-5060 mounting brackets. 5.99 Sonic Electronics

So right now I am at $410.89. Way over my original budget, but whatever, I am having fun and maybe this will extend the car's life for me for two or so more years.

After all of the great help I have gotten here and watching you Tube videos I feel mostly confident about this install. However, I still need to figure out the speaker wiring situation. What do you guys recommend for a suitable, yet not too difficult solution for wiring these components in my 7th gen? I think I would like to use the stock tweeter locations for now as I don't feel too comfortable with the other solutions I have seen given my skill level and time contstaints. I could possibly surface mount to the sails if putting the crossovers in the doors and tapping into the factory wiring there is a reasonable option.

and should I get two sets of these?

 

instead of the KTP you could have bought an actual amplifier and had much more usable volume. i just picked up a mint Alpine MRV-F505 (made in Japan in 1996 when people cared about sound quality) and paid $100 on eBay. I have a few more matching amps that are going into my car soon. also, that amp i got is active capable so i don't need passive crossovers (more control = better SQ).

FYI

however, the KTP is a nice plug-and-play kit and will improve the stock amp (using RCA inputs)

 

Yeah I got the 147BT so I would have more control per your rec in another thread. The KTP suits my needs for now as I don't have a lot of free time and the doors are about as big of a project as I can take on for now. If I get a sub I will probably bridge the KTP to the fronts.

 

i understand totally, it certainly is a nice plug-and-play solution.

you will like the head unit. it's pretty slick.

 

I went ahead and got a sub

Do you think I should bridge the KTP to the fronts and remove the rears? I am strictly looking for sound quality. The MB Quart fronts say 45-90 watts. The amp would be 90 per channel bridged.

 

90 watts is a lot of power especially at 4 ohms on mids. I would just leave the outputs the way they are. I am not sure what sub you went with but unless you are just running a ton of power to the sub it wont drown out 40 watts per mid. your stock stereo may have been putting out 10 watts per speaker. so you can use that as a comparison.