Radio won't turn on after attempting amp/sub install
 

Greetings car guys!

My wife had subs and an amp in her old car which I removed and am attempting to re-install in her current car (a 2006 Accord, stock head unit with XM and GPS factory connected). After running all the wires, splicing everything together and hooking everything back up, her radio and the clock no longer turn on. :confused:. The A/C and GPS systems still work as does the display screen, but no audio functions whatsoever are working.

Here's a nutshell description of what I've done so far:
First and foremost, disconnected the battery and then ran the power cable for the amp through the firewall and down the driver's side of the car to the trunk, shouldn't be any issues there.

Next I attempted to splice the remote wire for the amp to the remote wire for the car's stereo (blue wire with a white stripe according to the guide I found). I just cut (what I think is) the stereo's remote wire and twisted it together with the amp's remote wire, secured it all with electrical tape, and ran it down the passenger side of the car.

Since I'm only hooking the sub into the amp, I thought I could just splice the inputs for the RCA line converter into the speaker wires in her trunk, so I did that and secured it all together. Grounded this to the frame in her trunk.

Wired in everything to the amp and reconnected power to find that the radio doesn't work anymore.

I checked and replaced the radio's fuse (didn't look bad but had a spare so why not?) and checked the fuse on the amp's power cord (also looks great).

Any thoughts? Please let me know if I have posted this incorrectly or if I should find a car audio forum to hone in on my answer :)

Thanks!
Josh
Tallahassee, FL

Welcome to the forum!
I'll move this over to A/V Electronics. That's probably a better place for it.

Welcome.

First, clarify what you did for the remote turn-on. Here are the factory wiring colors:
2006 Honda Accord (6 Speaker System) Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Green
Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Red
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Red
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A

Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Black
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Red

Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/White
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Black
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Yellow

Note there is no remote turn on in the factory harness. If you tapped the factory blue/white you a shorting out the speaker outputs and the radio is protecting itself. If so, undo that. Reconnect the factory wiring, ensuring you are soldering these connections and not just twisting and taping. Crimp connectors are suitable with the correct tools.

You can tap the yellow/red switched +12V if necessary.

The better option is to buy a LOC with auto turn-on. David Navine Engineering has one I recommend.

Thanks so much for your help, Hope! So after my wife realized today that her unit required a second security code to activate the radio itself (the first only turned on the A/C and navigation) her radio came on just fine. With the immediate problem happily solved, I ended up routing the remote wire to her cigarette lighter, and the amp lit up nicely when we switched her car on. So good so far :)

The amp seems to be doing its job but it also seems to be pumping additional juice to her factory speakers (they are definitely booming harder than they did before) instead of to the sub. From what I can see, everything is hooked into the amp and the line converter correctly, but obviously something isn't right, heh. I'm going to give all the wires a second look tomorrow when I get home and I have more daylight, maybe I miswired something.

Its entirely possible that the sub is bad (it was a hand-me-down in the first place), but I'm pretty sure its wired incorrectly somehow since the amp *is* putting extra power to her speakers, just not the correct ones.

Again, thank you so much for your advice so far!

it's not possible for the amp to power the speakers if the speakers are not directly wired to the amplifier outputs. the inputs to the amp are low level and look at voltage only. the sub will put pressure on the rear speakers, causing them to move more, but won't change the front speakers.

sometimes the factory radio has EQ presets, or comes on with bass level increased. go through the radio tuning options to verify.

if the speaker wires do not have proper polarity, they can cancel out in the LOC. the result would be little output from the sub.

raido has no sound
 

I changed my battery and my 2010 honda accord raido comes on but no sound

you may need to enter the CODE for the radio. see the stickies in this section.