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-   -   Rear speakers (https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/audio-visual-electronics-10/rear-speakers-47188/)

sirtwist2 04-30-2012 12:20 AM

Rear speakers
 
Greetings,

I have a 1993 Honda Accord LX.

I am looking to upgrade the stereo, mainly so I can hook up my Ipod.

I am trying to decide if I should replace the speakers.

Currently, the rear speakers aren't working. How can I figure out what's wrong with them? The incoming wires are plugged in.

If I decide to replace the speakers, what should I look for to replace them with? I mainly listen to podcasts, news, talk radio, and sports. I also listen to some music, mainly older rock, alternative rock, and jazz. I would like decent treble, midrange, and bass, but don't want to spend a lot.

I'm looking at a Kenwood stereo, I would get a discount if I buy Kenwood speakers with it. Are any of the Kenwood speakers any good?

Lastly, how do I get to the speakers in the front doors? Do I need to remove the door panel? If so, how?

Thanks for any help!

Cody_754 04-30-2012 09:38 PM

Kenwood would definitely be a good buy. Much higher quality than my $80 Sony head unit lol. As far as installing them, yes you have to remove the door panel. Can't say it's the same as my 97 accord but it's probably very similar. Just look for any screws that might be holding the panel on, then take something flat like a crowbar with a protective towel around it and just pop the tabs out around the door panel. Good luck!

neophyte 05-01-2012 07:15 PM

as far as testing the speakers. use a dmm to test for voltage (a/c) at the speaker. unplug them and stick the probes into the connector. if there is voltage then the speakers are the problem. could be a couple of different things wrong with them but not really worth going into. if they are bad replace them. if not it is something further up the line. if the system is not amped it is more than likely in the headunit.

MysticBlueEX 05-01-2012 07:38 PM

Take the advice of this guy Neo, deaden the door panels with FatMat and seal them up the best you can. It makes a huge difference.
I went as far as water jet cutting 1.5" wide and 1/4" thick rubber sheets to surround the speaker mounts and glued them to the door panels all around the mounted speakers. I also stuffed the armrests and panel cavities with polyfill insulation. I can now get actual bass output from the 6 1/2" door speakers.

sirtwist2 05-05-2012 05:33 PM


Originally Posted by neophyte (Post 279546)
as far as testing the speakers. use a dmm to test for voltage (a/c) at the speaker. unplug them and stick the probes into the connector. if there is voltage then the speakers are the problem. could be a couple of different things wrong with them but not really worth going into. if they are bad replace them. if not it is something further up the line. if the system is not amped it is more than likely in the headunit.

I would guess that a dmm is a digital multimeter? I borrowed one and tested the wires. I got 31mV on the left speaker wire, the right one bounced around before settling on 31mV. I don't know anything about electronics, I'm assuming this means I'm getting something to the speakers and that it's the speakers that are the problem?

Thanks again!

neophyte 05-08-2012 09:44 PM

yea. It helps to test with a test tone. you get a more steady reading. but if you are getting power back there sounds like the speakers. it is odd that they would both go out however. I would suggest finding a speaker. can be an old one or you can buy individual 3.5s and what not at pawn shops dirt cheap. hook one in and see if it works. if so you will need new speakers. 31mv seems low.

keep_hope_alive 05-08-2012 10:02 PM

31mV (or 0.031 VAC) is about 1mW (or 0.001 Watts). no, that is not enough power to drive a speaker. 3.0 VAC is about 2W.

you should at least see a volt or two with the volume up.

note you should be measuring VAC and not VDC when measuring amplifier output.


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