Sanity Check - Wiring for Component Speakers
 

I'm getting ready to install my new Infinity Kappas (6.5") in the front of my '02 EX Accord (4 cyl sedan). How have people routed the new tweeter wire? Is there a clear access path?

My plan is to use the factory wiring harness to feed the cross-over (which will be mounted in the door). Then, I'll feed the woofer (easy) and then run a new wire to the tweeters from the cross-over mounted inside the door.

I saw a nice thread by the moderator that shows how to run a wire into/out-of the door - so I think I'm good on that part. I'm just curious how to get the wire routed to the tweeter opening from there.

Any insights are appreciated...

Don't put crossovers in the door. They will get wet and fail. Locate them inside the cabin. Tweeter on driver side is easy to access. Passenger side is easier to route wiring if you remove the glovebox. Fairly easy to do.

You can use factory wiring from behind the head unit to the door speaker for the woofer output. Then a new wire from crossover tweeter output to dash tweeter.

I have hidden crossovers in the glove box or behind the head unit.

I was hoping you would comment. Thanks for the insights!

The only time I've done door crossovers was when both woofer and tweeter were in the door and the car had molex plugs at the door to complicate wire routing. Then I located the crossovers in the door pocket or between door panel and door plastic. Neither were inside the door.

You will need to modify the dash tweeter mount to fit new tweeters and recover with new grill cloth. Overall ours cars are super easy to work on.

Also, tweeter wiring is easier if you remove the a pillar panel, it pops off. Make sure to note how it seats bottom first and the rubber door trim is on top of the plastic a pillar

Again, great insights - they are appreciated.

I swapped head units and now I see what you meant about the potential of mounting the crossovers in the dash. There looks to be considerable room on either side of the head unit.

And room below the head unit. Also space under drivers side dash. Just avoid factory wires as crossovers can pick up electrical noise from nearby wires.

Radio was pretty easy, eh? Did you solder wires or crimp and tape?

Under the radio would certainly be the easiest - I think I 'll give that a shot. It sounds like you're saying I should be relatively free and clear of interference there.

Very easy, lol. I soldered everything and used heat shrink for each wire. Then, I zip-tied the wires to keep everything nice and neat and locked together.

I need to run my RCA cables, amp trigger, and power cable for my sub amp next (and do your big-3 upgrade - that was an interesting read). I'll probably wait to do the front speakers until I get that all done...

My amp is pretty reasonable (200 Watts RMS X 1 at 4 ohms - it's an old DIRECTED amp...). My OEM alternator should be fine, right? I don't thump the sub too much...

OEM alt can handle quite a bit. i recommend keeping a volt meter installed so you can monitor voltage.

nice work on solder and heat shrink - as good as it gets.

RCA cables can be easily routed along the transmission hump then to the back under the rear seat (just pops out with one 10mm bolt by the driver side rear seat belts). then you can route up the side to get behind panels on either side by removing the rear seat side cushions - one 10mm bolt that is exposed after removing the seat bottom. remove bolt then lift up (easier with rear seat folded down). you need to remove the center console to route wiring along the tranny hump - which is also fairly easy. let me know if you plan on doing this.

otherwise, power/remote down driver side and RCA down passenger side is easy - it mostly depends on amplifier location and wire length.

i like using aluminum foil tape to secure/hold wiring down - every 6" or so. easy to apply (have to cut pieces with scissors) and doesn't leave a film if you remove it. don't use grey duct tape.

there are several locations for power wire - an unused factory grommet is above the gas pedal on the fire wall. there is a pre-cut removable piece in the firewall sound proofing. you can remove the grommet, drill a power-wire sized hole, insert grommet, run wire, seal with silicone. don't forget split loom for any exposed wiring in the engine bay or anywhere else. i protect all wire with tech flex or split loom on the entire length. it's cheap and saves wire damage.

when running wires, there are holes on the seat mounting channels that you can route through - this will save you making a hump in the carpet. don't try to squeeze it under the sill trim panels. running wire is much easier when you remove the front seats so you can loosen carpet. and even easier when you remove the carpet completely. also, once out, the carpet can be easily steam cleaned. and while the carpet is out you have a great opportunity for sound deadening. :)

i can pull my carpet in about 30 minutes. just need a phillips screwdriver, 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets/nut drivers.

any questions on these just let me know. i know the car inside and out by now.

If I remove the seats (mine have the side airbags) is there anything I need to be aware of?