sub wiring
#14
RE: sub wiring
Well I had a little time to think about it and talked myself out of it. I think I will just stay with the factory system. It is pretty good. Maybe on down the line I will think about it again or I will just leave well enough alone. Thanks for trying to help guyz.
#18
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
RE: sub wiring
Holy cow. Sorry guys, but you've given this guy some bad advice. If you amp has a high level input, which I'm assuming it does since you're asking the question, you can just tap into the speaker line running to the rear speakers. There is no need to cut them. The head unit will not see that much more load and you will still have your rear speakers. Granted a dedicated pre-out from a head-unit would be better, but if you don't want to replace your factory deck, then this setup is just fine. Just make sure that you set your gains properly. Your amp, provided you have a decent amp, will have a cross-over in it, so even if you're getting a full signal it won't matter. I, on the other hand, need to know if the signal at the 6x9's in the rear deck is a full signal or not.
#19
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
RE: sub wiring
I've only been into Car Audio in a serious way for 6 months or so but have experimented and researched widely.
The recommendation that I have been given in this situation is to take the 6*9's out of the rear deck and let the sub vent into the passenger compartment through the holes.
Running a Sub and a pair of 6*9's sharing the boot space is a bad idea as you will get cancellation that is as likely toreduce whatever bass you have rather than increase it.
Running full range rear speakers is generally not a great idea anyhow as it tends to drag the audio staging to the rear and can mess up your imaging.
Most, if not all, competitors that I know run a front stereo pair (2 or 3 way components) and a rear sub.
The recommendation that I have been given in this situation is to take the 6*9's out of the rear deck and let the sub vent into the passenger compartment through the holes.
Running a Sub and a pair of 6*9's sharing the boot space is a bad idea as you will get cancellation that is as likely toreduce whatever bass you have rather than increase it.
Running full range rear speakers is generally not a great idea anyhow as it tends to drag the audio staging to the rear and can mess up your imaging.
Most, if not all, competitors that I know run a front stereo pair (2 or 3 way components) and a rear sub.
#20
RE: sub wiring
That's the setup I had in my civic.... a set of Fosgate Components with dual tweeters, one mounted in the side of the door pointed up slightly and one in the center of the speaker with a single 12" eclipse sub in the back in a sealed box and it sounded great... like you said running full range 6x9's in the rear if not adjusted properly can overpower and pull your whole soundstage back and then it sounds ok but it's hard to get a full range balance to your front seats... there are of course always exceptions to this information but this is a pretty safe rule of thumb....
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