Suggestions on stereo installation
 

Soon Ill be installing a system in my 2012 Accord lx. I plan on Polk MM6501 components for the front and MM651's for the rear. I want to install the Soundstream 6 channel STL6.620 due to it's 6"x11" size with a LC6i loc.

I want to add a sub. I can do a sub in a box or add one to the cutout in the rear deck. If I do a deck one do I have to make a box for it? Does a deck sub sound different than a sub in a box?

Also wiring the LC6i, do I split the rear channel speaker wires for channels 2 & 3 so I send the sub channel a signal?

Any help appreciated.

It will sound different in a box than in the rear deck. how it sounds in the rear deck depends on how well you are able to isolate the front soundwave from the rear sound wave. you can do some research it is a lot for me to type out in here, but essentially the deck would be Isobaric compared to the box design you chose. the12volt com is a good source of information on that. they have comparison of almost every type of box and installation method. an isobaric install does not require a box though.

I am gonna let KHA get with you on that line out converter, I dont know much about that particular one and I dont want to give you any misinformation.

The12volt.com is a great site and mostly answered my question. I think my main worry is if i put the sub on the rear deck i can only do a 8" sub without much modification to the deck. If I do a box it can be removed if needed. One question is if a sub is in a box is the sound muffled by the back seats? If its on the rear deck will the sound be more clean?
This is my first sub and i dont plan to thump the neighborhood, i want it for a cleaner bass.

Reading sites about free air subs vs box subs I found out:
1. Deck mounted free air subs need a box still or it will cancel out the rear speakers.
2. Back deck may rattle if not properly supported.
3. Box or tube mounted can be removed if needed and still sound fine through the back seats.
4. Deck mounted will take a while to complete and box mounted is quick.

a sub in the trunk is going to cause cancellation in the rear speakers as well and distortion. it is the pressure on the backside of the speakers cone that causes this. the rear speakers in the accord are for bass and dont pruduce much in the ways of highs anyway. just take them out and set your crossover a little higher and you probably wont be able to tell the difference.

I think going with a box is the better way to go mounting it on your back deck you will still need some type of mods done to help support it and the sound

I would do the box as well. the rear deck can be done right and it can sound really good. but it is going to be a lot harder to get there.

sorry for the delay, been traveling.

by now you should know that you wire both front and rear factory speaker wires to the LC6i. the LC6i will let you choose either front or rear or both for the sub signal source.

whatever you do, your goal should be to retain fader and balance controls at the head unit.

if you keep rear deck speakers, a sub in the rear deck or in a box will distort the rear speakers by pressurizing the trunk. you need to build enclosures for the rear speakers.

using the rear deck for the sub takes a lot of work but is the best solution. since it takes time, you can start with box and build up the rear deck. it's a lot of fabrication and permanent modifications to the vehicle - but all of them will stiffen the vehicle. you can see my build log for how i incorporated sub(s) in a trunk baffle.

I have an email into soundstream to see if I have 4 high level speaker inputs into the amp (RUB5.800) will the 5th channel be summed to put a sub signal out or do i need a loc. Also i decided on a sub enclosure rather than a deck mount. Last question for the rear deck speakers should I use component, coaxial or mid range?

if you are going to replace them I would use mid basses or mid ranges.