Upgrading Front Speakers in 06 Accord EX
 

Hello,

So im gonna follow keephopealive's advice and upgrade my front speakers (before getting a sub, lol) but im not to familiar with what speakers to get. I'm thinking about getting Kenwood KFC-1665S or the Kicker 43CSC654

That being said, im open to other brands/makes but my budget caps out at about 70 dollars (before tax). Just wondering if these are the best go to options or if there are better speakers out there i can get for the price.

I'm just looking for something to replace my stock speakers with, i don't want anything too fancy or extreme, just something that will sound better and louder than the stock speakers. :shrug: Will my stock radio be able to support the Kicker speakers if i do decide to get them? Should i get less expensive speakers and replace all 4 speakers?

Any advice is appreciated!





Also if i did decide to get a sub and an amp (2 10"subs, dont need anything too fancy) will my stock radio support it? I really dont want to get a new radio because of the fact the radio and the A/C unit is an all in one in my 2006 Accord, and it will look odd. Thanks again!

Kicker is a fine choice for up front as a direct replacement. make sure to get a good seal between the new speakers and the door panel, meaning you need mounting adapters and weatherstripping foam.

Stick with a good pair up front as step 1. rears are an option in the future when budget allows. $70 is as low as I'd go for new speakers. you could get some pretty decent used speakers for that price.

when you buy an amplifier for a sub you when you buy an amplifier for a sub you need to make sure the amplifier has high level inputs and an auto turn on circuit so you can use the rear outputs to feed the amp a signal. dedicated power wire to the battery is needed.

Is there a video on how to install the dedicated wire to the battery?

access through the firewall is usually through an existing grommet behind/above the gas pedal. you will need to look behind the factory coverings but there should be a cutout in the rubber barrier.

a grommet is required in the firewall, and it should be a compression grommet to prevent water ingress.

routing in the engine bay should be away from the engine and following factory wiring routes. i use split loom and zip ties so it looks good and doesn't move.

a fuse is required within 18" of the battery terminal. this is to protect in the event of a short.

routing inside the cabin is usually with factory wiring down the driver's side, under the door trim. removing the driver's seat makes access easier when removing the B-pillar trim piece. most of the interior trim is held with clips.