Setting Base Idle speed
 

I was sure I had written this up before, but I can't find it...

This applies to Accords of the 1990 - 2002 range. Someone who knows more about earlier Accords, feel free to modify the range of model years.

Background:
Honda's idle-control system is a little bit finicky. It should be set up this way because otherwise the ECU will try to fight against any other adjustments. The "BASE" idle is a low idle, too low for normal operation. But it's the basis for the IACV to operate properly within it's control range.

Fix problems first:
- find & fix any vacuum leaks
- clean the throttle body bore & throttle plate
- clean the IACV and FITV (beginning 1998 there is no FITV)
- make sure the throttle plate closes completely
- - (mechanical stop-screw is only used to prevent it from wedging stuck closed)
- make sure the throttle cable goes a bit slack
- - (throttle cable is never used to adjust idle)
- make sure the cooling system has no air pockets (they confuse the system)

Find the parts first.
- Idle-Air Control Valve (IACV) is usually bolted to the back of the intake manifold.
- Idle-Air bypass screw is just above the throttle bore, recessed in a hole in the throttle body, it's usually a brass screw with a straight slot for a screwdriver. It has an O-ring that should be checked as a potential vacuum leak.

Procedure:
- Warm the engine up completely.
- Turn off all loads (AC, blowers, defoggers, stereo, EVERYTHING)
- Up to 1997; Unplug wire harness from IACV (engine will almost stall)
- - For 1998-2002; unplug the EVAP purge valve (see post #13 below).
- Adjust the idle-air bypass valve for 550 RPM
- - (PLEASE anyone with specific RPM for certain years chime in)
- Turn the engine off & plug everything back in

Now you should force the system to re-learn the idle behavior:
- Allow the engine to cool down completely
- Reset your ECU (different years pull various fuses)
- Start the engine without touching the gas pedal
- Allow it to run & warm up completely without touching the gas pedal

That should do it...

Now for some specifics...

For 1998-2002 Accord, there is no FITV. That function is built into the newer version of the IACV.

Reset the ECU by pulling fuse #13 in the fusebox at the right-end of the dashboard (near the right door hinges).

For 2003 & newer (especially later when they have motorized throttles) the procedure is driven by Honda's proprietary scan-tool. Never done it, don't know whether there's a do-it-yourself way around that.

Someone please chime in if they know whether this applies to the V-6 cars or not...

This may be an unneccessary question however I am going to ask anyway. Is the process the same for all engines(4 cyl) or are there more specific steps for a f23a1 engine? I am trying my hardest to not sound too much like a noob ;).

It's good for the F23A1, including the reminder in post #2 that your engine doesn't have an FITV.

I should add that some F22B1's do not have an FITV. My 97 does not have one.

The factory manual for the 97 accords says
550 +/- 50rpm for F22B1 and B2
620 +/- 50rpm for F22B5 and F20B3
When setting the idle when the IACV is not connected.

When plugging it back in and restarting the engine it should be
700 +/- 50rpm for F22B1 and B2
770 +/- 50rpm for F22B5 and F20B3

Hello!
 

:eek: But Jcollins, with your one post, you are a Noob..

Welcome to the HAF.. :)

I want to than all of you for your support! The car is running very good, and i think it was the adjustment for the idle that did the trick. What a great bunch of people! I am so glad i joined this forum! Again, I thank you all for your support, Jerry.

will be using this info ASAP...thanks guys

Thanks for the very comprehensive message. Will get right on it.

99 Accord LX 2.3l setting idle base speed (from service guide)
 

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hon...6310cd958f.png
Here's what the service manual says for 98-02

It's not the IACV but the Evap plug.. Aloha!

The EVAP Canister Purge Valve is mounted on the firewall, behind/below the intake manifold.

Thanks for posting that. My method has worked for my 1998, but I can't argue against the shop manual...

BTW, welcome to HAF.

Aloha
 

Aloha.. Hi Everybody.. Sorry to correct You Jim, but the EVAP pirgr valve is not on the firewall, it's located towards the front of the vehicle, on the intake manifold.. gonna look for s pic in my hundreds I've taken. Haha I've done basically EVERYTHING to My engine by now. The latest is, code p0325, replaced wiring (full of oil, long story), and sensor. Asked a friend for a 27mm deep socket, he gave Me a 1 inch. Sensor got wedged, tried to wiggle socket off and BROKE THE THREADED PART IN MY ENGINE BLOCK. Nightmares getting it out. Drilled hollow and Still not coming out. Even My 'screw out' set didn't work.. I swear this car is haunted. lol But, it's running!
Aloha❤️🤙💪💪💪💪😊❤️
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hon...4ec2880bbd.jpg
Nightmare!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hon...1e3a1b31e5.jpg
😫
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hon...aee5ea5d74.jpg
Black plug is EVAP purge.. this pic is September last year. It looks like a whole new engine now! Aloha

Inspection in 9 days... ugh