Honda Accord Forum - Honda Accord Enthusiast Forums - [FAQ] 7th Gen Strut Bar Installation Guide

Intro: Hello, hello. 03Sleeper here bringing HAF another 7th gen aftermarket install...this time the front strut bar. The strut bar is T6061 Alumnium with a White CF finish bought from EBay. Don't worry though...it fit perfectly...no bending, no cussing, etc.

Tools: Socket wrench (9/16" socket bit aka 14 mm), Brute force (you) [I had a pretty cool adjustable wrench...that violated the righty tighty, lefty loosey rule. It became righty loosey, lefty tightey. Maybe I'm just socket wrench incomptent.]
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/8459/dcp00012vp0.jpg http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/4120/dcp00022xz2.jpg

http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/8616/dcp00011bd7.jpg http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/4214/dcp00061we8.jpg
Two bracket assemblies, one strut bar.

Step 1: Put the parking brake on. Pop the hood. Go to where your strut brace/tower is. The two outer washers is what we want to remove at this point.

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/7821/dcp00032qq9.jpg http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/8864/dcp00042kl6.jpg

Step Two: Install the two brackets. I suggest you screw on lightly one part of the strut bar itself...it's rather heavy because of your point of engagement. Using the stock washers, tighten into position...not all the way. This is the right side [The easier side...just move that cable a bit for the bracket to fit.

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/8513/dcp00062ke5.jpg Bracket assembly installed.

Here comes the more challenging part and requires a little brute force. The removal of the washers is the easy part. Putting on the bracket in that position is the hard part. I suggest you slide/slot the upper part of the bracket into the bolt first. Then remove the bolt holding the two metal tubes together and gently lift up on the metal tubes. Slide the lower part of the bracket to the bolt...or close to it. Then using the end of your wrench or screwdriver, lightly tap down to ensure proper fitment. Sorry about the images...it was getting dark.

http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/5079/dcp0009lq0.jpg

Step Three: Next, install the strut bar itself. If you were smart and installed one end of the strut bar, good for you! If not, it's ok. You just have to remove one bracket...screw in the bar, then screw it into the other bracket, reinstall the bracket and place the washers on the bar so the fitment is tight. Then tighten the bolt that is on the bracket itself. Do that on both sides.

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Step Four: Tighten any remaining bolts and check everything is working order. Make sure the brackets are in contact with the tower with a flat bottom.

http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/1082/dcp0015ui9.jpg Matches the engine bay quite nicely...although I wished it was jet black.
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/3397/dcp0014dt6.jpg
Notice the bolts: Two on the tower and one on the bracket assembly needs to be tightened. Times two. (One on each side). I get better pictures in the afternoon.

Conclusion: Total Time: 20 minutes. I was being dumb so I had to relearn how to use a socket wrench. I still don't understand how rightey = loose and lefty = tighten but whatever. Yes it's an eBay strut bar but it's real solid, heavy, and wide. In short, just what a strut bar should be. It's like the people who purchase Bomz CAIs or SRIs and get the same effect as someone who purchases an AEM or Injen. As you can tell...the CF finish is just crud. You need to go up real close to notice it and when you do, you know it's a fakie. But from a distance, it appears to be a respectable strut bar. Great finish and polish! Cornering, sharp turns, and weaving abilties all have increased tenfold. It's amazing what a bar can do for the engine in its elimination of body lean. Overall, a worthy addition to anyone's car! :D