1996 Accord LX 2.2L
 

What's up guys. I have another issue that if someone knew where to start that would help so much. Its a 96 Accord LX F22 engine. The problem is I have no power to my gauges, windows, clock, and the gear selector switch. I've tried to replace the fuse that controls the instrument cluster(the only one I've found blown) under the dash and soon as you turn the switch back on it blows the fuse. I'm wanting to see if there is a link to the Service Manual in this forum somewhere but I haven't been able to find it. It seems to be a ground issue, but I'm not sure. I've read a few threads on here that have referenced similar issues but no one has mentioned what they've done to fix it. A little background on this car, it sat for a couple years because it needed a engine. I recently put a new engine in it and replacement transmission, and few little other odds and ends. But its been driving fine other than being in limp mode due to it needing a crank sensor but now this. . . So if anyone has any idea what could be the problem, PLEASE help me out lol Thanks:confused: in advance!!

This goes back a few years so I don't know if all the links still work??
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-manuals-4597/

I think I may have found my issue. I've looked at the SM, and after seeing that all these components have different grounds but they all share the same power distribution. I think it's my ignition switch! I found the way to test it. But I dont have a multi meter to check continuity. I'll pick one up today and let anyone who cares if that's what it was.

Thanks man, the first link still works btw!

Please do update the post if it was the ignition switch. Fortunately that year is not a chip key.

Thankfully it isn't a chip key!! I haven't had the chance to diag any further. The next few days I will be able to check and I will for sure update and let everyone know for sure.

Alright, I have checked the ignition switch and there was only once that it seemed to have bad continuity. So I'm second guessing that's even the problem. I'm gonna continue to check over some things to be 100% sure that's my problem. Dont really know what other route to take, but I'm goning to go back to my original thought and check the grounds.

A blown fuse though is due to a + to - short or too much of a load. If the ignition switch had an intermittent open, not making contact and sending + on the wire that it should, the affected circuitry/lamps just wouldn't function. Since it sat for a couple years maybe mice or something that ate wire insulation somewhere? But it sounds like it was generally running Ok after the new engine and other parts. It may still be possible, wires that were close, now touching, or a wire that has + when active touching any metal (ground) in the car,

Well, I know that the possibilities of the wiring being bad and all. I'm having a hard time trying to track it down and to be honest its starting to be a little frustrating. I've Identified all of the components In the system and I've started to eliminate each one by one but I'm still coming up short. I haven't checked all the grounds yet, but I have started to remove parts from the circuit in order to track it down. But every time I turn the ignition switch to the ON position it pops the fuse.

There is power getting to the wire but I believe that there's too much resistance. Which to me means a ground issue. . . right?