ARP studs in an F22B1??
 

Hey guys. I was watching some videos on the internet recently and saw a guy who listed some of the mods on his f22b1 CD5. I was wondering where I could get some of the head STUDS like his. He said he was using ARP head studs and the only ones I saw on the list by ARP was for the H22A4. Those would work in my OBD2 F22B1 wouldn't they since the heads will swap?

And before you ask why I would want to put studs in my motor I'll answer that now. I plan on either doing a NA high compression motor, or a boost setup. The motor I have now already has a blown head gasket so I figure while I'm in there I might as well just throw the studs on before I go and build it. I'll most likely just run a low boost at first since it will be cheaper and I can do some internal mods later down the road. What do you guys think??

The studs for the H22 would work, just verify that they have the same # of studs. I think that you should stick with the OEM studs until you do the internal work. It's best to torque down once because the threads can deform a tiny bit to perform better, but this only happens once. For low boost, you will not need the studs, but you might think about exhaust manifold studs. The turbo mani flanges are typically thicker than OEM and the ARP's will give you about an extra 1/4" to work with, on top of being stronger.

IMO, fix the head gasket now and worry about upgrades when you can afford to do it right and completely. The wait $uck$, but it's the right thing to do ..... I have a room full of turbo parts and a spare head .... it's killing me that it's not in yet, but it will be done right.

Well I have to replace the head bolts anyways don't I?? Everyone is telling me that the threads get a little bit of stretch in them when they are torqued and that can only happen once. And the theory behind using studs over bolts i think is that the torque in the block end gets torqued down once and stays that way since the torque pressure for the head is on the head rather than the block like when you're using bolts. Thats always been my understanding when using head studs. I think thats why they use studs on top-fuel engines because they might take off the head like 2 or 3 times in a day of running the engine. Because when you remove the head when using studs you take off a nut and eliminates backing the stud out of the block yes??

Head studs for boosted motors so the head dosent lift off the block

You can re-use the bolts, get new ones or get studs. It's your choice. Your description of the force distribution is accurate and the benefit of leaving the threads in the block alone is also a benefit of the studs, but as far as their purpose, you won't need them until you are pushing over double the stock engine power or spraying a large shot of nitrous (>125 HP)

Many other car companies use one-use head bolts, so in general that story is true. Instead, in the Honda factory shop manual there's a spec for measuring the stretch of the head bolts, & if they exceed that stretch you throw them away.

Head Studs are a good thing to have turbo or not they are added insurance IMO