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-   -   F22 Valve Adjustment (https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/engine-internal-11/f22-valve-adjustment-54134/)

RobinsonRicer 04-08-2013 01:20 PM

F22 Valve Adjustment
 
I know theres quite a bit of info on this but I have a specific question I cant find the answer to as well as one other.

I tried it, didnt get it quite right so I tried again. First adjustment I noticed the #4 cyl secondary (vtec) valve was a bit tight. Tighter than the primary. Either that or the other way around. It was the far left was tighter than the one to the right. Are the secondary valves supposed to be a little tighter or should they all be the same? I did the adjustment assuming that it wasnt really needed but it was more something for me to get some practice with.

Also, Im still trying to get the trick. It should be a slight amount of drag with the feeler gauge. Should I have all the valves on the tight side or lose side for the F22B1? I still hear clicking on the intake side but it goes away when the engine heats up.

poorman212 04-08-2013 07:08 PM

First, I'm sure you know, the intake and exhaust are different. .26mm and .30mm

The "feel" on the feeler gauge...that is not something I can do on the internet.

Also, IMO....error on the side of loose if you are not sure.

I'm old and slow, aren't you running an F23 ?

TexasHonda 04-08-2013 07:21 PM

I think it's just right when slightly loose w/ cold tick, and stops as soon as head warms. These engines don't require frequent adjustments.

good luck

RobinsonRicer 04-08-2013 07:53 PM

f22 with an f23 manifold.
I thought to error on the side of loose as to not risk destroying the valves. But my biggest issue is that I can watch videos and everything but not know the exact feel.

I do notice a cold tick that gets better with a warm engine, just from the intake though. I cant isolate which valves with the cover on. I will go through and do a little less drag from the feeler throughout the intake and exhaust.

I read that if theyre right or a little loser that will allow the valves to 'sit' properly and create a tighter seal for combustion.

Your info gives me somewhere to go from. Thanks guys.

JimBlake 04-08-2013 09:15 PM

If they're TOO loose, you will be able to feel some movement in the rocker. As far as "feeling" how tight the feeler gauge is held, you need to be able to pull it out without extraordinary effort. And a tiny bit loose feels almost the same as WAY WAY too loose.

RobinsonRicer 04-08-2013 10:21 PM

All the rockers have give when theyre facing the opposite end of the cam lobe when I did it. That would be the valve clearance, you mean much more movement? I can take the rockers on the cylinder that im working on and move the rockers easily.

Just to verify, this may be a stupid question, but I should make sure the one side of the rocker rests solid on the camshaft to get a good gauge of the valve clearance on the other side of the rocker?

JimBlake 04-09-2013 03:31 PM

Yes, on the cylinder that you're working on...

You can feel a bit of movement in the rocker. That's the valve clearance. You insert the feeler gauge and that takes up all of that motion so there's no longer ANY movement. Because of the oil film, you want to make it tight enough that the feeler gauge sticks a bit.

If you put the feeler gauge in and check for motion in the rocker, the oil will make it feel like there isn't any clearance. That's why you want the feeler gauge to be noticably tighter as you try to pull it out from the gap. As you try different-thickness feeler gauge blades, you'll find a whole bunch of them won't fit at all. Then all the thin ones will go in very easy. There will be one that's "in-between" those extremes.

It's so much easier to DO IT than it is to explain it with text.

RobinsonRicer 04-09-2013 04:16 PM

Yeah. Well I have a bit more to go by that helps. It cant really even be shown in videos either. I gotta have someone who knows what theyre doing show me the amount of drag I need. Until then ill just keep practicing.


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