stalling
 

Hi fellow Honda owners. This is my first of many posts I'm afraid. Thought I was a pretty good mechanic until now but I'm learning "slowly" that I need HELP. I have a 98 accord ex 2.3 vtec that I love but every now and then she shuts off out of the blue. Usually when I'm coming to a stop. After one or sometimes two attempts she starts up and then runs fine. I got the codes for upper and lower oxygen sensors and replaced them (after market from ebay. At one point I got the code cyp sensor but I put new cap,wires and plugs. Would appreciate any info you guys have

** Welcome New Member **
 

I checked the codes and I'm getting P0135 and P0141 a circuit failure for both sensors. Coming home last night she would stall when I come to a stop or slow down. To get started again I had to hold the gas half way to the floor. Please help

Check fuse 8 (15A) in the under/dash fuse/relay box. It supplies power common to both O2 heater circuits. Not usually a source of stalling/no-start, but need to fix these to be sure.

If fuse is good, then possible wiring problems, or ECU problem.

good luck

Thanks TexasHonda the only fuses I could find were on the side fuse panels on both sides of dash. all checked out ok. Was wondering if there are any fuses under the dash. would the main relay be a possible cause for my problems? Wish I could afford to take her to a dealer. I get attached to my vehicles and this is the first car I really like. Hoping it will be last one I own cause this old boy isn't able to afford another ride. VA disability doesn't pay much so it's good people like you and others on this site that make life affordable. Just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate yours and everyone's help. THANK YOU

Your problems are electrical faults in the O2 sensor (front & rear) heater circuits. There is no relay in this circuit.

Fuse 8 is in under dash, driver's side fuse/relay panel. This is on kick panel area beneath dash.

Since both O2 sensors were replaced and condition remains unresolved, the fault is likely on the power delivery circuit (short or open wire). Only way to find the fault is to use a Volt-Ohm-Meter to evaluate each wire from ECU to O2 sensor connector. If you're up for this I will describe how to perform tests. All you need is VOM and some stiff single conductor wire to make jumpers.

Tests may reveal wires are OK, and ECU fault is likely. However, it would be unusual for same fault in both O2 sensor circuits of ECU.

good luck

What emmision standard is this car? I looked at this the other day and the CA emmision cars do use a different type of O2....next on those there is a relay for the heater circuit.

Just want to understand everything as we go into testing. I think the A4 engines use the relay. I'm not trying to confuse things, just want to be sure we have all the details.

It's not necessarily California, the question is whether it has the ULEV engine.

F23A1 = VTEC
F23A4 = ULEV-VTEC
F23A5 = non-vtec

The exhaust manifold looks very different.

I'm not sure about the ulev. Just know it's a 2.3 vtec Vin # 1HGCG5654WA203826 if that will help. Lost my internet for a couple days so to catch up I went ahead and ordered Denso oxy sensors from Rockauto. Figured that I would send the two back I got from ebay. More than likely they were the problem I hope. Suppose to be here Friday. Would like to try the test you were talking about Texas so I'll be looking for your advice

Your VIN appears to have an error (digit missing?). Check VIN decoder in DIY forum, a sticky post at top of page to obtain VIN info.

If you are ordering two O2 sensors, you likely don't have ULEV (assuming correct sensors).

A common fault is more likely than two faulty sensors; faulty fuse, wire or connector.

good luck