08 Accord won't start, only getting U0100 code
#1
08 Accord won't start, only getting U0100 code
Hi guys, when I tried to leave work last night my Accord would turn over, but would not fire. The only code I could pull by jumping the plug is U0100. Once I got it towed home, I was able to get it to fire on starting fluid. I can't hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key on. I need to get the print for that plug, but one of the wires seems to always be hot, and two of them are grounds. However I can't get any voltage on the 4th wire. I bench checked both ECM/Fuel pump relays, and the ignition and throttle control relays, all seeming to be fine. During the last 6 weeks I have a had a couple of strange issues. Twice I had to turn the key off and try again because it wouldn't start (started fine the second try), and twice the airbag/sealbeat error light came on until I shut the car off and restarted it.
I'm hoping my ECM hasn't died???? If so, I saw somewhere that you have to get your new one reflashed, and the dealer won't reflash a used one. Is this true? Any help is appreciated.
I'm hoping my ECM hasn't died???? If so, I saw somewhere that you have to get your new one reflashed, and the dealer won't reflash a used one. Is this true? Any help is appreciated.
#3
Your tests pretty well confirm no fuel delivery. That result suggests either main fuel relay (MFR2) or fuel pump fault.
Determine whether fuel pump is getting 12V on pink wire (back probe connector) to fuel pump/fuel level connector. You will only get power for 2-3 secs when keyswitch is first turned On, then power goes off and key must go to Off to repeat.
If no power, then MFR2 is likely problem. If power and no pump run, then fuel pump has failed or is stuck in a no-start position. I had this happen and was able to get a re-start pump by repeated on/off/on/off.... on keyswitch. When you hear fuel pump, engine should run.
good luck
Determine whether fuel pump is getting 12V on pink wire (back probe connector) to fuel pump/fuel level connector. You will only get power for 2-3 secs when keyswitch is first turned On, then power goes off and key must go to Off to repeat.
If no power, then MFR2 is likely problem. If power and no pump run, then fuel pump has failed or is stuck in a no-start position. I had this happen and was able to get a re-start pump by repeated on/off/on/off.... on keyswitch. When you hear fuel pump, engine should run.
good luck
#4
Thanks for the input. I know what you mean with the 2-3 seconds...I had a 95 Civic where I went down a similar road. I will check the battery connection (it is fairly new) and try to see where I'm losing power, because I know it's not getting to the plug under the seat.
#5
I'd have to double check at work, but I'm fairly sure that code is a CAN bus communication code. And seeing you had other odd issues that seems very likely. Please google how does CAN bus works. Its basically a communication channel for all modules, and if you have a breakdown someplace things like this will happen.
#6
I pulled the fuel relay under the dash, and checked to see if I was getting power there (when I first turned the key on), and no power. So the problem is before that.
I pulled the ECM harness plugs out and found a problem, but I don't know if it is the problem I'm looking for. The bottom plug, top row of pins, 3rd wire is a red with a black stripe. It appears that the insulation was damaged and the wire is corroded.
A: Does anyone have a pin diagram for this plug, so I can figure out what this wire is, and
B: Is it possible to repair this, as it is the smallest gauge wire ever made. At a minimum I would think the contact(?) would have to be pulled from the harness I think.
I pulled the ECM harness plugs out and found a problem, but I don't know if it is the problem I'm looking for. The bottom plug, top row of pins, 3rd wire is a red with a black stripe. It appears that the insulation was damaged and the wire is corroded.
A: Does anyone have a pin diagram for this plug, so I can figure out what this wire is, and
B: Is it possible to repair this, as it is the smallest gauge wire ever made. At a minimum I would think the contact(?) would have to be pulled from the harness I think.
#7
Its hard to tell what connector is in what spot, rather I can only see connector A,B,C.
Connector A has a rd/blk at pin #7 and that is actually the 3rd wire over. That is for the main relay. If you pull the connector they are generally labeled.
And yes you can repair it. Pull the connector out and pull the pin, google how to do it.
Connector A has a rd/blk at pin #7 and that is actually the 3rd wire over. That is for the main relay. If you pull the connector they are generally labeled.
And yes you can repair it. Pull the connector out and pull the pin, google how to do it.
#8
Its hard to tell what connector is in what spot, rather I can only see connector A,B,C.
Connector A has a rd/blk at pin #7 and that is actually the 3rd wire over. That is for the main relay. If you pull the connector they are generally labeled.
And yes you can repair it. Pull the connector out and pull the pin, google how to do it.
Connector A has a rd/blk at pin #7 and that is actually the 3rd wire over. That is for the main relay. If you pull the connector they are generally labeled.
And yes you can repair it. Pull the connector out and pull the pin, google how to do it.
Sounds like a winner. I'll figure what to do about that pin.
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