1992 Accord A/C Leak?
Sounds like you picked up the wrong set of manifolds.
There are 2 types
R12 and 134a
I thought most manifolds came with the adapters so you could check either system.
I am not very knowledgeable in a/c systems so someone else will have to chime in on solving the rest of your problems.
Good Luck!
There are 2 types
R12 and 134a
I thought most manifolds came with the adapters so you could check either system.
I am not very knowledgeable in a/c systems so someone else will have to chime in on solving the rest of your problems.
Good Luck!
This set only came with adapters for R134a. Here's what I bought:
NAPA AUTO PARTS - A/C Manifold Gauge Set - R134a -783420
Which side of the firewall would this be on? Engine side or passenger side? Or are you talking about the drip hose underneath the car where the wet spot always appears?
Those temps are close to normal, but a little low since air temp is low also. When temps climb to 80-90, it may be a struggle to get adequate cooling.
You have an R12 system and the manifold gauge set you bought was designed for R134a which has different size (much larger) fittings. Hopefully you can return.
It will probably take < 12 oz (1 can) of R12 to bring your system to normal. If it's been running Ok for some time, this may be low cost fix, but a can of R12 will probably cost $20-$30.
good luck
You have an R12 system and the manifold gauge set you bought was designed for R134a which has different size (much larger) fittings. Hopefully you can return.
It will probably take < 12 oz (1 can) of R12 to bring your system to normal. If it's been running Ok for some time, this may be low cost fix, but a can of R12 will probably cost $20-$30.
good luck
I found the short drip hose viewable from inside the car running into the firewall where it goes to the outside and drips onto the pavement. There is no sign of UV die inside the passenger compartment or underneath the car.
Those temps are close to normal, but a little low since air temp is low also. When temps climb to 80-90, it may be a struggle to get adequate cooling.
You have an R12 system and the manifold gauge set you bought was designed for R134a which has different size (much larger) fittings. Hopefully you can return.
It will probably take < 12 oz (1 can) of R12 to bring your system to normal. If it's been running Ok for some time, this may be low cost fix, but a can of R12 will probably cost $20-$30.
good luck
You have an R12 system and the manifold gauge set you bought was designed for R134a which has different size (much larger) fittings. Hopefully you can return.
It will probably take < 12 oz (1 can) of R12 to bring your system to normal. If it's been running Ok for some time, this may be low cost fix, but a can of R12 will probably cost $20-$30.
good luck
My original post can be boiled down to this one question: if I added a can of R134a to my system and the pressure is less after adding the can than before it (28psi now vs 33psi before I started), does that indicate I have a leak somewhere?
Given that people seem to think my A/C vent temps are okay, I'm gathering people are concluding that I do not have a leak. Is that correct?
R134A set should have fit the connections. Did you connect high and low sides correctly?
That small difference (33 to 28 psi) in pressure after adding refrigerant says nothing. Was engine speed same, was compressor engaged, was fan speed same, was air temp same,...etc. Pressures can only be judged from experience and relative performance. There are no absolutes.
You may have a leak or not, but if leaking it is a small leak. A large leak causes system to quit cooling very quickly.
good luck
That small difference (33 to 28 psi) in pressure after adding refrigerant says nothing. Was engine speed same, was compressor engaged, was fan speed same, was air temp same,...etc. Pressures can only be judged from experience and relative performance. There are no absolutes.
You may have a leak or not, but if leaking it is a small leak. A large leak causes system to quit cooling very quickly.
good luck
NOTE: Photo shows arrow pointing blue hose to red fitting. I was trying to fit the hoses properly - just goofed on the photo
Last edited by jkrueger2020; May 29, 2012 at 08:30 PM. Reason: NOTE: Photo shows arrow pointing blue hose to red fitting. I was trying to fit the hoses properly - just goofed on the photo
Okay, so I finally got a gauge that works! Sorry about the delay. After letting the car idle with the gauges hooked up for about 5 minutes, here are the numbers I got today:
Air Temperature in the Shade: 89 degrees Dew Point: 55 degrees
With the compressor disengaged for about 15 seconds (every couple of minutes with max AC the compressor decides to disengage):
Low Side: 35 psi
High Side: 235-240 psi
With the compressor engaged at idle (about 600 rpm):
Low Side: 25-29 psi (No this is not a typo)
High Side: 240 psi
When the compressor was engaged boosting the idle to about (1200-1500 I'm guessing):
Low Side: 23-26 psi
High Side: 240 psi
Based on a chart I found online (not honda specific), it appears that normal ranges for my temperature should have been Low: 45-55 psi and high: 250-270 psi.
So what say ye all? Do I have a leak? Faulty compressor or what?
Air Temperature in the Shade: 89 degrees Dew Point: 55 degrees
With the compressor disengaged for about 15 seconds (every couple of minutes with max AC the compressor decides to disengage):
Low Side: 35 psi
High Side: 235-240 psi
With the compressor engaged at idle (about 600 rpm):
Low Side: 25-29 psi (No this is not a typo)
High Side: 240 psi
When the compressor was engaged boosting the idle to about (1200-1500 I'm guessing):
Low Side: 23-26 psi
High Side: 240 psi
Based on a chart I found online (not honda specific), it appears that normal ranges for my temperature should have been Low: 45-55 psi and high: 250-270 psi.
So what say ye all? Do I have a leak? Faulty compressor or what?
Last edited by jkrueger2020; May 30, 2012 at 05:16 PM.


