Check timing w/ a timing light to be sure 1) flashes occur w/ timing light and spark is happening on #1 lead at about 15 degs BTDC.

Was distributor removed? It is possible to install distributor upside down (key aligned in camshaft slot off by 180). This will prevent starting but you will have spark. Engine turnover will be uneven w/ spark at wrong timing.

It is also possible you have a weak spark. I remember one case several years ago where poster struggled and eventually, replacing the coil fixed the problem. Since you're getting spark the ignitor is OK, but a weak coil (internal short) will cause spark that won't ignite the fuel under pressure in the cylinder.

good luck

Update:

So after double checking everything with no success in the starting my 94 LX, today I decided to go to my local LKQ junk yard and see if I could find another ECU and swap it for the one in the car. All the accords in the yard had their ECUs yanked out and missing but only one. It was a 1997 Accord EX with a vtec, mine is a 94 LX none vetc. Checked the ports to see if the match my ECU and they did. So I paid $50 for it, figured if it wasn’t the problem I’d just bring it back and get my money back so I had nothing to lose.

Came home swapped it, turned the key, lo and behold the car fired up. I was very excited to know that I at least tracked the problem to a faulty ECU. But I have some issues though. There is a check engine light and so I pulled out the code P1253 (Vetc system malfunction). My 1994 accord LX is a none vtec.

The car does run but idles at high RPM and when it calms down the RPMs keep fluctuating up and down. Also the the car is overheating and the fans do not kick in. Could it be that the 2 ECUs (94 LX none vtec and 1997 EX vetc) are not compatible. At least that’s what I think, and if that is the case, then I could just get an ECU that’s exactly as my 1994 LX. Could someone confirm this for me please? Again thanks for the help.

I would get the correct ECU for your car to start out. The EX ECU will work, but it is programmed to run the vtec engine. That is why you are getting a check engine light.

You can try starting up the car right now, then turn on the a/c. Both fans on the radiator should turn on.

I think getting the proper ECU in your car will help narrow down the problems that are caused by the EX ecu. Then we can help narrow down any other problems.

You can search for used ECUs in your area by going to car-part.com.

The idle rpm could be a ECU issue, but doubt the overheating is related to ECU.

Check that fans are plugged in, check for 12V to fan connectors. If 12V available, fan is bad. If not, check fuses and relays.

Also check thermoswitch A (on thermostat housing). Is it plugged in? If should be open switch cold, and closed switch when temp reaches 194F (just short of midway on most gauges).

You can find a matching ECU on ebay or car-part.com. You should be able to find one for $25-$50.

good luck

Update:

I’ve been away for a while and wasn’t able to work on the accord. Now that am back I started working on it and it turned out my ECU was tossed. Called up a local yard and they had one that matched the exact part # as mine. Went up there picked it up for $80, came home installed it, and the vehicle fired right up with no issues at all. So all that headache was caused by a bad ECU.

Now another issue came up. It also turned out that the used tranny I installed was bad too. So I went back to my local LKQ pulled out another one and installed it.

Once I was done, I tried to start the car and it wouldn’t start. It cranks all day but will not start. The issue is similar to the 1st issue I had of it not starting and after I checked and verified everything was in working order, I figured out I might try and installing other ECU since that was the problem the first time this happened. So I got another used ECU, installed it with no success. It still will not start.

I have no clue what’s wrong. I have fuel pressure, verified that the fuel infectors are spitting out fuel, and I also have spark. The car cranks all day but will not start.

Could a bad Mainshaft Speed Sensor cause the car not to start?

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

If you have fire & timing, engine should start unless no compression. Since car was running before trans installation, compression problem seems unlikely. I suspect spark may not be adequate.

Try checking spark w/ a timing light. This checks spark under engine compression. Attach spark pickup to each lead and check for timing light flashing. No flash means spark is not occurring at plug.

If spark is OK, I would also check that spark timing (spark pickup on #1) is OK by shooting the crankshaft w/ engine turning over. You should see about 15 degrees BTDC indicated. Is it possible someone removed distributor to install transmission and installed upside down? This is easy to do.

good luck

Could you put your car's information in your signature? Then we don't have to go to the first post to remember what you are a driving.

I would check for codes on your car. Count the flashes from the check engine light and the D4 light. See the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum for checking engine codes.

You may want to pull the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse in the engine bay fuse box for a minute. Then try to start the car. Then recheck for codes.