1997 accord 2.2 a/t idles rough but drives smooth
I've been having a issue with my accords idle being rough but not stalling but once I get moving it runs fine feels a bit sluggish but nothing more I've done a lot of work since I bought it excluding the no a/c issue im still working on, I've replaced the fuel injectors, fuel pump, fuel tank, fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, plugs and plug wires, water pump, timing belt, crank and cam sensor, I've triple checked the marks on everything around the timing belt It has had a valve adjustment went from not running at all to running better except that idle I'm getting a p1399 for a random misfire, and a p0501 for the speed sensor which I've already ordered
P1300 is listed as a random misfire code in my shop manual, but P1399 isn't listed. Can you verify the code?
Sounds like a lot of work has been done to the car to get it running. If your scanner can read live data, take a step back and watch the short and long term fuel trims when the engine is at operating temperature. Post the short and long term trims (approx vale as the fluctuate) then report the short and long term trims by raising the rpm to ~2000.
Sounds like a lot of work has been done to the car to get it running. If your scanner can read live data, take a step back and watch the short and long term fuel trims when the engine is at operating temperature. Post the short and long term trims (approx vale as the fluctuate) then report the short and long term trims by raising the rpm to ~2000.
P1300 is listed as a random misfire code in my shop manual, but P1399 isn't listed. Can you verify the code?
Sounds like a lot of work has been done to the car to get it running. If your scanner can read live data, take a step back and watch the short and long term fuel trims when the engine is at operating temperature. Post the short and long term trims (approx vale as the fluctuate) then report the short and long term trims by raising the rpm to ~2000.
Sounds like a lot of work has been done to the car to get it running. If your scanner can read live data, take a step back and watch the short and long term fuel trims when the engine is at operating temperature. Post the short and long term trims (approx vale as the fluctuate) then report the short and long term trims by raising the rpm to ~2000.
Typically a clogged EGR system or a valve that is not working will cause the engine to stumble slightly around 2000 rpm. If the valve is not openeing to the commanded level, ECU will detect a difference from the value of the lift sensor vs expected commanded value and give a P1491 code. P1498 would be for insufficient EGR flow to the intake manifold.
The EGR vacuum is controlled by a vacuum solenoid on the driver's side of the engine bay. Search for part on ebay to see what it looks like. The solenoid is controlled by the PCM (or ECU). I'm not 100% sure the criteria for the EGR valve to open, but you might have to be driving. If you have a vacuum gauge you can T into the EGR valve vacuum hose, try driving the car and have the vacuum gauge taped to your windshield to see if the valve gets vacuum to open.
The EGR vacuum is controlled by a vacuum solenoid on the driver's side of the engine bay. Search for part on ebay to see what it looks like. The solenoid is controlled by the PCM (or ECU). I'm not 100% sure the criteria for the EGR valve to open, but you might have to be driving. If you have a vacuum gauge you can T into the EGR valve vacuum hose, try driving the car and have the vacuum gauge taped to your windshield to see if the valve gets vacuum to open.
Typically a clogged EGR system or a valve that is not working will cause the engine to stumble slightly around 2000 rpm. If the valve is not openeing to the commanded level, ECU will detect a difference from the value of the lift sensor vs expected commanded value and give a P1491 code. P1498 would be for insufficient EGR flow to the intake manifold.
The EGR vacuum is controlled by a vacuum solenoid on the driver's side of the engine bay. Search for part on ebay to see what it looks like. The solenoid is controlled by the PCM (or ECU). I'm not 100% sure the criteria for the EGR valve to open, but you might have to be driving. If you have a vacuum gauge you can T into the EGR valve vacuum hose, try driving the car and have the vacuum gauge taped to your windshield to see if the valve gets vacuum to open.
The EGR vacuum is controlled by a vacuum solenoid on the driver's side of the engine bay. Search for part on ebay to see what it looks like. The solenoid is controlled by the PCM (or ECU). I'm not 100% sure the criteria for the EGR valve to open, but you might have to be driving. If you have a vacuum gauge you can T into the EGR valve vacuum hose, try driving the car and have the vacuum gauge taped to your windshield to see if the valve gets vacuum to open.
Is your engine the EX or the LX/DX? My old 95 accord was the EX and the ports remained clean for a while. I remember the plate on top had channels like an ant farm that were very clogged up, so you might want to clean those out as well if you haven't already.
It's an ex when I cleaned it the first time it was all clear as possible I'm gonna take it back apart today and recheck it
The Honda P1399 trouble code indicates a random cylinder misfire. This means the engine's computer has detected that one or more cylinders are not firing properly. It's often associated with issues like faulty spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel injectors, or even more serious problems like a damaged cylinder head or gasket.
You probably do not have a compression tester, but poor compression can cause the issues you described, amoung other things.
You probably do not have a compression tester, but poor compression can cause the issues you described, amoung other things.
The Honda P1399 trouble code indicates a random cylinder misfire. This means the engine's computer has detected that one or more cylinders are not firing properly. It's often associated with issues like faulty spark plugs, ignition coils, or even more serious problems like a damaged cylinder head or gasket.
You probably do not have a compression tester, but poor compression can cause the issues you described, amoung other things.
You probably do not have a compression tester, but poor compression can cause the issues you described, amoung other things.


