1997 Honda Accord Special Edition Security Question
 

Hi Guys, I'm new here and hope someone can help me figure something out since the Honda dealer seems to have no idea.

I bought a 1997 Honda Accord Special Edition almost 2 years ago and have drove it since then with no problems. When I got it it didn't come with an owners manual or the Key FOB. Recently my battery died and after I replaced it my stereo had CODE on the front. I couldn't find the radio code anywhere in the car but I read you could get the code if you got the serial number off the back of the unit and entered that in with your VIN number to the Honda website and they'd give you the code. So, stupidly I pulled the stereo with the battery still hooked up, got the code, plugged the stereo back in, entered in the code and the stereo started working but now the car won't start. Now, I have low voltage to the battery, no dash lights except the battery light when you crank the car and clicking at the relays. Thinking this could be an alarm issue I crawled under the dash and found a KARR alarm. I have a friend who installs these alarms and asked him to come over and pull it out or fix it. He pulled it out, but it didn't fix the problem. I have checked the fuses at the left drivers kick panel and they were fine. The fuse box under the hood showed a blown blower 40 amp fuse which I replaced along with a 50 amp fuse that had a 40 in it's place. Still nothing. I then replaced the ignition switch, still nothing. After i replaced the blower motor fuse I went in the car and turned it on and it worked, then I tried to crank the motor and the blower shut off but when I backed the key back into acc position it turned back on. I know the '97 SE is the 1st Accord with a keyless entry and a security feature. I guess my question is does this factory security system have a starter kill, and if so how do you overcome it without a FOB? I have the silver box which says Honda on it under the passenger seat which has been described in other posts about being the security/keyless entry. I'm just at a loss with this right now and would appreciate any information.

Check if the under-hood no. 15 (80A) large battery fuse is blown.

http://honda-tech.com/attachment.php...1&d=1409105584

Ok, I will check that one. I appreciate the help.

I checked the fuse, it didn't look burnt but I replaced it anyway. Still just get the relay clicks and the fuel pump hum.

Have you checked the battery voltage or try to jump start the car? It may just be a weak battery.

Yes, I just bought this battery. I got it about 2 months ago, since then the radio just displayed code and I didn't worry about it until the kids wanted to go to the drive inn to watch a movie so i needed a radio. I have tried jump starting the car just to put my own mind at ease, that didn't work. I've started the car at the starter but then I can't put it into gear. The car ran fine the night before I took the stereo out. After I put the stereo back in and entered the code, the radio worked at the car wouldn't start. The stereo has a factory wiring harness so I'm pretty sure I didn't short anything out.

1. Is the SE's keyless/security control unit (located under the passenger seat) plugged in? It is needed to start the car. It provides the ground to the starter cut relay.

If the OEM security control unit was not plugged in, it could have been the aftermarket KARR alarm previously was rigged to provide the ground source to the starter cut relay.

2. Also check under-dash fuse no. 9 (7.5A), this fuse provide power to the starter cut relay when the A/T gear position switch is in PARK or NEUTRAL, and the ignition switch is turned to START.

The starter cut relay (normally open-type relay) will be energized when it gets power from Fuse no. 9 and the ground from the security control unit, which will subsequently close the start cut relay contact and provide power to the starter via the ignition switch.

The control unit under the passenger seat is connected, it has two harnesses that plug into it. I checked the #9 fuse which says Security on the panel and the fuse wasn't burnt. I'll get a new 7.5 tomorrow and plug it in to see if that helps. Thank you again for the help.

Did you by chance unplug the interlock/neutral safety switch when you removed the console to get to the radio :shrug:

Hi redbull-1 and poorman212,
Sorry I didn't get back on yesterday. I checked all the fuses with a multimeter and they all test as working. The battery still tests as 12.2 volts so it's still charged. I don't think I unplugged the neutral safety switch as I didn't go that far into removing the front panel, but I will take it off that far and check just to be sure. I have so many panels off right now 1 more won't hurt anything. I also checked my brake lights and those come on too. Tested every fuse under the hood and there was 1 bad 15 that went to the rear defroster.

I talked to a guy on the phone who is a friend of a friend and he wants me to focus on the KARR alarm that was uninstalled previously. Specifically the "Butt" connected wires that still exist under the dash. He wants me to rewire those without those connectors. There was a relay as part of that KARR alarm system but not anymore since it was removed. I do appreciate all the help and suggestions, smashing my head against the dash only goes so far.