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1998 . 2.3 vtec .P0300 and p0302
I am getting hard cranking, especially when cold.When the car starts, it takes about 3 secs to smooth out and then it idles and drives fine until I shut it off for about an hr.After shutting it off for an hr, the cranks are not as hard as when I leave it overnight.
I have changed the plugs, wires, distributor w/cap and rotor.I even changed the main fuel pump relay.I am running out of ideas except the fuel pump and injectors.Any ideas? p0300 and p0302. https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...ser_online.gif https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/buttons/report.gif |
P0300 is a random misfire and P0302 is a cylinder 2 misfire. Sounds like you replaced all the ignition parts that can cause this problem. Next is fuel and compression.
You have a few tests you can try. Check for 12V to the #2 injector with a test light. Swap injector 2 and, say 4. See if the code changes to P0304. You can try a compression test to see if something is wrong mechanically with your engine. |
Originally Posted by PAhonda
(Post 383160)
P0300 is a random misfire and P0302 is a cylinder 2 misfire. Sounds like you replaced all the ignition parts that can cause this problem. Next is fuel and compression.
You have a few tests you can try. Check for 12V to the #2 injector with a test light. Swap injector 2 and, say 4. See if the code changes to P0304. You can try a compression test to see if something is wrong mechanically with your engine. My next question is , can valves that needs adjusting cause a hard start?I think someone on here said it did solve his hard start?Not sure which post |
What was each injector's resistance? Your response is confusing.
The injector gets constant 12V when the key is in the II position with the car not running. The engine computer grounds the injector to open it up. A test light would let you know if the wiring can supply proper current/voltage. It is unlikely, but very easy to check. I highly doubt the valve adjustment would cause your hard start issue. Focus on the P0300 and P0302 first. |
Originally Posted by PAhonda
(Post 383164)
What was each injector's resistance? Your response is confusing.
The injector gets constant 12V when the key is in the II position with the car not running. The engine computer grounds the injector to open it up. A test light would let you know if the wiring can supply proper current/voltage. It is unlikely, but very easy to check. I highly doubt the valve adjustment would cause your hard start issue. Focus on the P0300 and P0302 first. |
Originally Posted by PAhonda
(Post 383164)
What was each injector's resistance? Your response is confusing.
The injector gets constant 12V when the key is in the II position with the car not running. The engine computer grounds the injector to open it up. A test light would let you know if the wiring can supply proper current/voltage. It is unlikely, but very easy to check. I highly doubt the valve adjustment would cause your hard start issue. Focus on the P0300 and P0302 first. injector 2 11.7 ohms injector 3 11.6ohms injector 4 11.9 I dont know the mechanical part of their working condition.I think I will take it to a shop and have them test it.I turned on the ignition and I am not getting any voltage at injector harness.Does this voltage come and go or should it be a constant power at the prongs? |
Originally Posted by PAhonda
(Post 383164)
What was each injector's resistance? Your response is confusing.
The injector gets constant 12V when the key is in the II position with the car not running. The engine computer grounds the injector to open it up. A test light would let you know if the wiring can supply proper current/voltage. It is unlikely, but very easy to check. I highly doubt the valve adjustment would cause your hard start issue. Focus on the P0300 and P0302 first. |
I think I know what I did wrong.I disconnected the injector wiring harness from a plug around the upper timing belt cover.I will plug it in and check for voltage at the harness.I will report back
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When you test for voltage at the injector, use the red volt meter lead on the red/blk wire. I think the wire color is red/blk. Look at each injector connectors. All injectors will have one wire color that is the same on all of them. That is the + side of the circuit.
Use the black volt meter lead on a good ground like a valve cover bolt. The engine computer provides ground only when the injector needs to open. If you stuck both your meter leads into the injector connector, then you would read zero voltage. |
Originally Posted by PAhonda
(Post 383174)
When you test for voltage at the injector, use the red volt meter lead on the red/blk wire. I think the wire color is red/blk. Look at each injector connectors. All injectors will have one wire color that is the same on all of them. That is the + side of the circuit.
Use the black volt meter lead on a good ground like a valve cover bolt. The engine computer provides ground only when the injector needs to open. If you stuck both your meter leads into the injector connector, then you would read zero voltage. But compression is fine.smh I adjusted the valve using Ericthecarguy's method but I think I did something wrong because when I was done, the valves were ticking worse than beofre.I am about to adjust the valves using the marks on the timing cover than using the cam lobes.My problem may be in the head.I am not sure yet |
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