Unfortunately, that really sounds like bent valves.

 

The compression testers that O'Reilly rents out can be used to pressurize cylinders. If yours is similar with a hose that screws onto the gauge, you can unscrew the gauge, take the Schrader valve out of the hose, and adapt the hose to accept a male air connector. The thread on the hose is most likely 1/8" NPT so you have get a fitting to screw on a 1/4" NPT connector. Hook the hose to your compressor & listen to where the air is escaping.

 

OK, now I am really stumped! Timing did not jump. With #1 piston at tdc the tdc timing mark on the pulley lines up perfectly with the pointer. So why no compression??? I heard about cars that have sat for a long time without being used could "seize" up the compression rings in the cylinders and thus would not seal and cause a no compression condition. Any one else heard of that one? I have already added oil to the cylinders with no change in compression. I guess my next move is to get a leak down tester and go from there. Any suggestions?
Thanks

 

Coming in late so let me say sorry.

So timing lines up, are we sure the valve train is moving?

 

yes it is

 

I just put shop air to the engine to see if there were any leaks. These were my findings: I started by bringing #1 cylinder to tdc. I added 100 psi shop air from my compressor into #1 cylinder Air comes right back out of #3 cylinder. Added air to #2 cylinder, air escapes from # 4 cylinder and vice versa. I don't know if I am doing this correctly. I am thinking not and that air is escaping due to valve position. Should I do this test with the other 3 spark plugs installed and check for leakage at the intake, exhaust, crankcase and coolant system? BTW adding shop air to engine was suggested by a friend.

 

Gee, thanks.

Are you sure you have #1 @ TDC and not 180° out? Pulling the valve cover at this point is probably wise; make sure #1's cam lobes are on the base circle. Yank all the plugs. Pressurize #1. Depending on your compressor's tank size, the gauge should drop slowly for a normal cylinder. I used a little roofer's pancake compressor with a tiny tank and as I remember the it took 15 or 20 seconds for the compressor output gauge to drop from 90psi to 80psi (with the compressor off.)

 

Is your #1 cylinder the one on the driver's side of the engine?

 

valve cover and timing belt cover are already off. #1 cylinder (drivers side of car) is at tdc. camshaft sprocket "up" mark is at top and tdc mark on crank pulley is lined up perfectly with pointer. Distributor rotor pointing to #1 cylinder on cap.

 

Ok, so if #1 is lined up, add air and it is coming out of #3. Check the valve lash on Cyl #1.