ECT switch issue, 96 v6 accord
#1
ECT switch issue, 96 v6 accord
I'm having an issue where within the past few days, my cooling and condenser fans are not turning on when the engine reaches the proper temperature.
A bit of a back story first: I fixed my ac after about 11 years of it not running. When taking it out on the highway over the weekend, the poor old ac clutch couldn't handle it and burned up. This blew my condenser fan fuse, since I guess the coil pack burned up with the bearings. I replaced the fuse only to find out that the fans stopped going on when the coolant was hot enough.
Through some jumper wire diagnostics I traced the issue to the ect switch. No problem, I replaced the switch but its still not turning the fans on. I bled the coolant after replacing the switch of course.
If I put a fused jumper wire on the plug going to the switch, both fans run just fine, but when the switch closes, nothing happens. I'm at a bit of a loss here. The plug itself is a part of the wiring harness, so I don't believe I could find just a replacement, but I'm hard pressed to believe that there is something wrong with that. I've personally hit a brick wall and would appreciate any help, thanks in advance!
A bit of a back story first: I fixed my ac after about 11 years of it not running. When taking it out on the highway over the weekend, the poor old ac clutch couldn't handle it and burned up. This blew my condenser fan fuse, since I guess the coil pack burned up with the bearings. I replaced the fuse only to find out that the fans stopped going on when the coolant was hot enough.
Through some jumper wire diagnostics I traced the issue to the ect switch. No problem, I replaced the switch but its still not turning the fans on. I bled the coolant after replacing the switch of course.
If I put a fused jumper wire on the plug going to the switch, both fans run just fine, but when the switch closes, nothing happens. I'm at a bit of a loss here. The plug itself is a part of the wiring harness, so I don't believe I could find just a replacement, but I'm hard pressed to believe that there is something wrong with that. I've personally hit a brick wall and would appreciate any help, thanks in advance!
#3
I figured bum switch, are you talking about that or the actual sensor? The computer is getting correct temperature, I have a scanner hooked up. I forgot to mention in the op, but after I replaced the switch I tested the old one out of curiosity, when the water I had it in reached spec temp, it closed the circuit properly.
#4
Is the gauge on your car rising up towards the H mark, or is it staying at the normal temperature?
The engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) send the temperature to the PCM and this is what you read on your scan tool.
The coolant temperature switch A is on the thermostat housing and is an open/closed switch. This will turn on and off the fans. It has two wires and they are green and black.
Just want to make sure that you tested the coolant temperature switch and NOT the ECT sensor. What part did you replace?
When you unplug the coolant temp. switch A, and jump the electrical connector with a piece of wire, then turn the key to the II position, do both fans turn on?
The engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) send the temperature to the PCM and this is what you read on your scan tool.
The coolant temperature switch A is on the thermostat housing and is an open/closed switch. This will turn on and off the fans. It has two wires and they are green and black.
Just want to make sure that you tested the coolant temperature switch and NOT the ECT sensor. What part did you replace?
When you unplug the coolant temp. switch A, and jump the electrical connector with a piece of wire, then turn the key to the II position, do both fans turn on?
#5
Is the gauge on your car rising up towards the H mark, or is it staying at the normal temperature?
The engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) send the temperature to the PCM and this is what you read on your scan tool.
The coolant temperature switch A is on the thermostat housing and is an open/closed switch. This will turn on and off the fans. It has two wires and they are green and black.
Just want to make sure that you tested the coolant temperature switch and NOT the ECT sensor. What part did you replace?
When you unplug the coolant temp. switch A, and jump the electrical connector with a piece of wire, then turn the key to the II position, do both fans turn on?
The engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) send the temperature to the PCM and this is what you read on your scan tool.
The coolant temperature switch A is on the thermostat housing and is an open/closed switch. This will turn on and off the fans. It has two wires and they are green and black.
Just want to make sure that you tested the coolant temperature switch and NOT the ECT sensor. What part did you replace?
When you unplug the coolant temp. switch A, and jump the electrical connector with a piece of wire, then turn the key to the II position, do both fans turn on?
I was in fact testing the switch, that's also what I replaced. Out of curiosity, I tested the old one and it did close the circuit when the water reached the spec temp, but it wouldn't run the fans either, even when the temp should have kicked them on.
If I feel the body of the switch, it feels hot which makes me think that coolant is getting to it. Also, when I took the old one out coolant came out of the hole, so I don't think there is a blocked passage there.
If I unplug the wire and jump it, both fans do turn on. I'm using a sort of thick wire, so it doesn't get down in to the plug, but it does touch the contacts on the edge.
#6
Sorry, don't really mean to bump, but I'm pretty stuck here.
If I'm driving, it's alright. The temperatures don't really go above 213, but if I'm stopped for any extended period of time, like at a light, they start going up. Would it be worth it to see if I can clip the plug off another honda and splicing it in? I don't exactly know where the problem may lie.
If I'm driving, it's alright. The temperatures don't really go above 213, but if I'm stopped for any extended period of time, like at a light, they start going up. Would it be worth it to see if I can clip the plug off another honda and splicing it in? I don't exactly know where the problem may lie.
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Brenton Thornicroft
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01-01-2014 01:33 PM