2004 Acvord V6, 3.0 liter, AT, transmission issue.
 

Hello, I am a new member. I have had issues with my transmission since January of last year on and off. To summarize, I have changed transmission fluid twice, filter once, removed and tested on the bench all six solenoid. replaced TAC, she to broken connector, others all single linear ones Including, clutch and dual solenoid seem to be working. I also cleaned the small finger filters in tubes,inside,the dual solenoid. I didn't get any trouble code except the, P0741 torque convertor clutch at one time which I replaced, but even that unit tested,fine on the,bench. There was also.a code for Bank 1 row 1 oxygen sensor, I replaced that as well. the symptoms was similar to slipping. but it wasn't because once I turned,off the engine and within a minute or,two turned on the engine, transmission would engage. It usually works for about 300 mea no issue, then it acts up again. I get about 16 ohms on the,linear solenoid and once I power it it clicks and the plunger moves. I have not yet changed the VSS speed sensor. Also haven't checked,the,pressure,switches. 2 months ago, I took it to a transmission shop , they can't find anything wrong, because the car was running good, they test drive and hooked up their diagnostic device.I myself use an Autel which does engine ECU, Transmission as well as ABS SRS

I am not,getting any code related,to transmission or,engine .
What shall be the,resistance of any of these Solenoid? Could this be a bad ground that is intermittent. I appreciate your,help.

Nick

Does the CEL or D4 light start flashing when the transmission acts up?

Honda Accord V6 AT
 

Hello

No D4 no check.engine light, nothing flashing. When I connect my Atuel diagnostic tool and go through complete scan. everything checks out ok. even in freez frame. Not only my diag tool doesnt show, the,transmission shop diagnostic tool doesnt show any codes either. As I said earlier the only code I had was P0741 TCC senoid stuck off and the O2 sensor, which I also replaced drove 350 miles + no issue then all of sudden. It revs high and doesnt go into hear. Extremely slow shift from.park to rear or in D mode.i read check shift solenoid which I.already have three,times.Now I should say that I check all Solenoids off the vehicle because it's,easier to get to it. One thing that behooves,me is transmission does not fix itself. Many people mechanics or not are too quick to condemn transmission. It must be electrical be it bad ground wiring or bad ECU. But shouldn't I get some code? If no code then what?

Thank you

Transmissions are difficult to diagnose. Does the shifting problem happen in a certain gear or all gears? Will your scanner tell you the commands the PCM is giving to the transmission?

Hello and thank you for getting back to me.Before the shifting or better no downshifiting would occur, I don't know which gear.The current problem is T first it wouldn't go in reverse or forward but after a while it would slowly get into.gear.
I haven't booked up the diagnostic tool to see what command it sees from pm, because it doesn't move enough for it to Check and frankly I am not sure how to use this,feature and not sure,it,has that capability. But when it scans for any code all modules engine transmission it indicates no fault, only DRS, which is driver side sear buckle , the switch has issue. Could you please tell.mevwhat resistance value,is acceptable,for the,single clutch solenoid as well as dual shift solenoid for this 2004 by 3.0 liter. I think.it has Baya transmission.
Could it be the,pressure switch for 2nd or,third are bad? Somewhere on internet I read somtumrs,they go bad and font give any code.
Thank you

Negative, the BAYA was only available on the 2006 and 2007 Accord V6 models; you have an older and far less reliable transmission in your car. If I were in your shoes, I'd swap out the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches, and if that doesn't work, then I'm thinking it is new tranny time. Speaking of the BAYA, you can retrofit that to your car and have a much better unit.

Resistance tests off the car with a volt meter are good for open/closed circuits, but a "good" resistance reading on a solenoid can be misleading. I think that a bad transmission would be bad all the time, so maybe the hydraulics/mechanical of the transmission are good. This is hard to diagnose.

I'm leaning towards a wiring/control issue with the transmission. As for a ground, your transmission would be grounded through the engine block. You may want to inspect where the - battery cable grounds to either the transmission or engine block. I don't have a drawing near me, so just follow the - battery cable, as the block ground cable should be fairly large.