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2005 coupe window problems

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Old Apr 26, 2014 | 06:43 PM
  #1  
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Default 2005 coupe window problems

Hi all,
So my passenger side window was working intermittently, clicking noise when I pressed the switch (when it wouldn't work). Then it stopped working all together and the driver side stopped working too. The door locks work.

I just bought a new master switch ($150!) and it doesn't appear to be the problem.

I have read that the window regulators / motors have been known to go bad. Does anyone have a similar experience? Would like to get a few opinions before I buy new regulators.

Or could the relay be a problem?

If it is the regulator, would I need to buy both the left and right, or would a bad passenger regulator cause both sides to stop working?

Also, they both failed in the up position.

Is there anyway to tell without taking the door apart?

Thanks for the help,
Pat
 

Last edited by baller11111; Apr 26, 2014 at 07:32 PM.
Old Apr 27, 2014 | 06:55 AM
  #2  
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Do you have a volt meter? In the end, one of the best tests is to pull the door panel and apply power to the window motor and see if it runs.
 
Old Apr 27, 2014 | 11:30 AM
  #3  
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I do have a volt meter. How do you apply power? Jumpers to a battery?
 
Old Apr 27, 2014 | 12:22 PM
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Yes you can jump power from a battery source.

Next, there is a "jump" from the wires you can do - sorry about the volt meter question, we might still need it.

Jump #10 and #9 with a paperclip or piece of wire. Then ground #3. The pass window should go down.

We'll get to the drivers side later, wanted to start with the one that acted up first as it might have "caused" the other.

Edit: Ok, my bad. If the window does go down I guess you might want to know how to make it go back up . To do that, jump #10 and #18 with the wire and ground #3.
 
Attached Thumbnails 2005 coupe window problems-7th-gen-power-window-pin-numbers.jpg  

Last edited by poorman212; Apr 27, 2014 at 12:26 PM.
Old Apr 30, 2014 | 08:52 PM
  #5  
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haha, I was going to ask about which one gets it up! I'm gonna try it next week, too much rain this week. thanks!

this is for a 2dr, right?
 
Old May 2, 2014 | 05:39 PM
  #6  
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Yes, what I posted works for both the 2 and 4 door.
 
Old May 31, 2014 | 12:48 PM
  #7  
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It just makes a clicking noise when I jump #10 and #9.
How do I ground #3 (noob here)? I put a wire to the door metal?

How can I test the driver side motor?

Is there a way to test the relay? I checked the fuses, they are ok.
 

Last edited by baller11111; May 31, 2014 at 12:55 PM.
Old May 31, 2014 | 10:35 PM
  #8  
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Now my car won't shift out of park and the instrument panel goes dark after a few seconds. I'm not sure if messing with the door / window control has trigger the anti theft (the green Immobilizer is blinking, but car starts and runs fine)?

The car starts fine and runs, but a few seconds after starting the instrument panel goes black (lights up when starting). I can't move the shifter (auto) out of park.

Also, I took the door panels off both doors (coupe) and now the inside door handles are not working (outside handles work). I may have pressed down the door lock while putting the panel back on, would that affect it? I'm sure I reattached both door handle cables, is there something else I needed to do.

I have an aftermarket remote car starter, it still works.

Please help, I need to drive this car tomorrow!
 
Old May 31, 2014 | 10:49 PM
  #9  
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Check under-dash Fuse No. 21 (7.5A). Do not use a higher amperage fuse if it is blown, only use the same amperage.
 
Old May 31, 2014 | 10:55 PM
  #10  
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Also, check under-dash Fuse No. 7 (10A).
 



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