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-   -   2010 Honda accord clutch slipping ... Again (https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/general-tech-help-7/2010-honda-accord-clutch-slipping-again-64592/)

Peter Chavez 05-11-2017 01:14 PM

2010 Honda accord clutch slipping ... Again
 
I put about 100 miles a day on my car (delivery boy) replaced the clutch already but its starting to slip again at 175000 pretty sure its because of the way that i drive and i push the little 4 cylinder daily.
So far action clutch is the only kit with a lighten flywheel so should i go with that?

Also how much should i pay for labor? Aamco charged me $600 but it took them 5 days, how long should it take? I dont mind paying extra to get my car back sooner

Celicool 05-11-2017 05:12 PM

I would definitely look at the way you drive a manual car. Perhaps, you can change the habit to make your clutch last longer. I used to drive a 1985 Toyota Celica and put over 300K miles on it without even having the clutch changed once. It's not only how much you drive, but it is also how you drive it.




What kind or brand of fluid/oil do you use in the tranny?

Go with genuine Honda clutch, it worth the extra $$$.
Rent an economy car while yours is in the shop. It should be around $25/day.

PAhonda 05-11-2017 06:50 PM

How many miles are on the current clutch?

I think that you should stick with OEM parts (or equivalent aftermarket parts).

shipo 05-11-2017 08:11 PM


Originally Posted by Peter Chavez (Post 375116)
I put about 100 miles a day on my car (delivery boy) replaced the clutch already but its starting to slip again at 175000 pretty sure its because of the way that i drive and i push the little 4 cylinder daily.
So far action clutch is the only kit with a lighten flywheel so should i go with that?

Also how much should i pay for labor? Aamco charged me $600 but it took them 5 days, how long should it take? I dont mind paying extra to get my car back sooner

The problem with lightweight flywheels, especially with inline 4-cylinder engines, is a phenomena called "torque reversal"; this happens when the flywheel drives the engine between the power-strokes (depending on engine, between 40°-60°, twice per revolution). The thing is, while a lightweight flywheel may well be desirable in racing applications where the engine is kept up near redline for the duration of the race, for street applications they can horribly affect the driveability of the vehicle.

Long story short, you'll hate your car if you put one on it; as PAhonda says, stay with OEM or equivalent aftermarket parts).

As for "Double-A-Beep-Beep-Em-See-Oh", I would avoid them at all costs; find yourself a local independent mechanic.

Peter Chavez 05-11-2017 11:52 PM

Clutch pedal pressure?
 
i absolutely hate the clutch on my 8th gen since i rolled it off the lot way too soft for me and the clutch bites way too high for my taste, but can it be due to the hydraulic clutch on these newer cars, never had a problem in my 95 civic or 2000 kia sephia both beaten daily mercilessly, Ive read somewhere that u adjust the pressure plate to ur liking? (Insanely stiff)

I want the car to feel completely different after the new clutch and afterwards i wanted to get headers cause the bodys way too heavy for the 4 cylinder, thats all i want done for now and get another cheaper project since its my 4dr daily, is that the right route? Aftermarket clutch so it can take the power from the headers once installed?:shrug:

shipo 05-12-2017 06:55 AM

An aftermarket clutch can be purchased which will increase the pressure on the plate, but I've never heard of one which is adjustable. As for the "one which will take the power from the headers", the factory clutch will handle that with no issues; the thing is, headers *might* add as much as two or three horsepower, and even the, all of the way up near redline. Said another way, adding headers will not prove to be an extra burden when mated to an OEM clutch.


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