94 Accord Auto Final Drive RPM Inconsistency
 

I've got a 94 accord ex auto 140k miles. When the car is somewhat cold and I get up to speed, 70-75mph Im lookin at like 2700rpms. After about 15-20 minutes of this my rpm's slowly climb to about 31-3200 rpm. Im thinking the torque converter is slipping because of the viscosity change in the fluid. The fluid has about 5k miles on it and its not burnt or dirty. It was a little low so I added about 5oz of lucust tranny fix stuff. No change so far.

Any ideas? Are the torque converters on these cars electric locking or hydrolic locking?

Torque converter should be locked at this speed. Is D4 light flashing?

Even if no D4 light, check for trans codes by shorting service check connector under glove box and reading D4 light flashes.

Is the engine really turning over faster (higher noise level) or is RPM indication higher? That much RPM increase should cause 5-10 mph speed increase w/ torque converter locked.

Does rpm gauge work correctly at idle when this problem has occurred? Perhaps higher idle rpm?

good luck

The D4 light started flashing for the first time yesterday. I turned the car off and restarted it and it stopped. What does this mean? No speed change, just rpm increase at speed. Am I totally screwed?

Read the code(s):

techauto(dot)awardspace(dot)com/transmission(dot)html

Get the code.....it will store in the ECU/TCU. There is a service connector on the pass side that you insert a paperclip or piece of wire into.

Problem Solved with no $$$
 

Ok. I took Roader and Poormans advice and figured out how to get the codes. Under the passenger side glove box the connector mentioned was right there. (blue female plug) Did the paper clip deal and got codes 1, 7, and 8. I went to techauto(dot)awardspace(dot)com/transmission(dot)html and found the following. 1 is the lock up control solenoid. 7 & 8 are the shift control solenoid valves (A and B valves). I looked them up on RockAuto Parts Catalog and elsewhere and the two solenoid assemblies are about a buck seventy five a piece. You can get a tranny for about six so I said, umm NO. I checked both sets by grounding them and connecting each male pin in the plug to the positive battery terminal and sure enough, a loud click. I pulled the two sets of solenoids and took the gaskets with screens in them out and sprayed carb cleaners around and in them. Some black sh*t came out of the lock up solenoid as I expected. Reinstalled them and it shifts way better then it ever has and now when Im cruising at 70-80mph Im looking at like 2400-2500rpms. BAM!!! Nailed it! A little research and dirty hands got the job done.

Thanks for yalls help.

Debris means something is wearing. However, clutch plates are supposed to wear so maybe it won't come back. However, don't be suprised if same problem arises again.

A drain/refill of ATF is indicated to see if there's anything substantial in fluid.

good luck

Good to know cleaning the solenoids worked. This gen's automatics are pretty bulletproof so there are plenty of good used ones available. $600 seems high; they go for $200-$300 in my part of the country.

I did a drain and fill and the fluid just looked a little dark, as to be expected after about 15k miles. I didnt find any metal shavings or chunks. The Magnetic plug just had a little bit of metal dust. The car runs and drives like a dream now. Again, thanks for your help guys.