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Saddlebum 12-11-2012 06:52 PM

'94 Accord starter problem
 
Hello.

I have a '94 Accord DX with just under 300k on the odometer.

For the past few months I have been having a problem when I run errands and make several starts/stops. The ignition cranks but won't turn over. I have to sit and wait for 2-3min. and then it starts right up. The problem does not occur when the car has been sitting for awhile or the engine is otherwise cold.

Does anyone have an idea of what the problem is?

Thanks.

TexasHonda 12-11-2012 07:28 PM

Part of your problem is an incomplete description. "ignition cranks but won't turn over" is a contradictory statement.

Do you mean engine turns over but will not start or ignition switch causes a click but starter does not turn engine over or nothing happens at all when you turn key to Start? Remember we aren't there to know any details.

good luck

Saddlebum 12-12-2012 06:50 PM


Originally Posted by TexasHonda (Post 304993)
Part of your problem is an incomplete description. "ignition cranks but won't turn over" is a contradictory statement.

Do you mean engine turns over but will not start or ignition switch causes a click but starter does not turn engine over or nothing happens at all when you turn key to Start? Remember we aren't there to know any details.

good luck


I don't know how I can describe the problem any plainer using lay terms - ignition systems that engage cause the engine to start; when the problem occurs in my vehicle, the ignition engages when the key turns the switch but the engine does not turn on. Engines don't turn over - ignitions turn over. Or at least that is how it has been explained to me.

PAhonda 12-12-2012 07:00 PM

Lets try this.

When the car is working normally, you turn the key to the start position, the starter motor turns on and spins the engine. When the engine is running on its own (fires up), you release the key.

So using my terms above, is the problem with the starter spinning the engine? Or is the engine not firing up?

Saddlebum 12-13-2012 04:24 PM


Originally Posted by PAhonda (Post 305045)
Lets try this.

When the car is working normally, you turn the key to the start position, the starter motor turns on and spins the engine. When the engine is running on its own (fires up), you release the key.

So using my terms above, is the problem with the starter spinning the engine? Or is the engine not firing up?

Applying your terminology, the starter motor turns on but the engine does not fire up - if I sit and wait for 2-3 minutes and attempt the same procedures the engine will engage normally.

Silver6gen 12-13-2012 06:00 PM

Have you checked your spark plugs? What do they look like white, black, oily (care to upload photos?)? How old are they? Do they smell like oil or burnt oil? What brand are they? (honda's run better with OEM NGK's)

Lets start here,

When you crank (same as turns over, this is what confused us about your OP) your engine over and it doesn't start you need to preform some test.

Get an HEI spark tester like this one (they are like 8 bucks at autozone):
http://www.autoparts2020.com/rsdev/p...T_HDR_ID=16576

Then when the engine will turn over but won't start you need to pop the hood, and take one of the wires of one of the spark plugs. Then add this tester into the receiver of the ignition wire (plug it in like a spark plug) then clip it on to a solid ground. try to angle the spark end so that you can see it from inside the car.

Then get back in your car and crank the engine while looking at the tester. If it is dark you should be able to see the spark fire when you are trying to start the car. If you can't see it - don't worry this is common when its bright out - in such a case you will have to listen for it.

It sound like a faint snap, this is the energy arcing. as you turn the car over you will hear snap......snap.....snap ect.

If you do hear it and the car hasn't started then it is a fuel issue, if you don't hear it then its an ignition problem.

--------
These are my first thoughts based on your description, in order of hypothetical possibility. Please do the above test unless you feel like you want to start throwing parts at the car, it will more than likely result in a terrible rate of success.

If it is Ignition;
-Faulty ICM ($85)
-Arcing plug wires ($60)
-Possible fried Coil ($80)
-Oil in - or - faulty distributor and/or rotor ($30)

If it is Fuel
-Faulty "Main Relay" the one that controls the injectors and pump ($150)
-Inadequate or failing fuel pressure / pump (could be due to several different things) ($150)
-Clogged fuel filter ($5)

So looking at that list I am sure you can agree with me that it is worth testing.

Saddlebum 12-14-2012 05:15 PM

Thank you for the response.


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