96 accord es coupe brake bleed?
 

Hi folks. the abs light was coming on and I knew one of the rear disks was warped so I Put new disks on the back gave the sensors a scrub and changed the pads and one of the brake pipes was in a bad way so I changed it. That all went well till I started bleeding the brakes. I cracked the nipples free and started by pushing a bit of fluid through the rear left pipe that I changed till the fluid flowed cleanly then locked that off and moved over to the rear right to start the bleed as you should on the rear right. Started on that and all was going well bleed a bit lock off release the pedal and so on and top up the reservoir when needed. that went well so then I moved over to the rear left and bled that again same thing went well locked off and all was good with a nice hard pedal. so i refitted the rear wheels dropped it and was about to start the front when the heavens opened and a monsoon started so I decided not to do the front yet and the pedal was good. Then I started it and the pedal dropped. It didnt hit the floor and the brakes are working better but theres a lot of travel and the abs light is still on. Any ideas would be great thanks

Probably got air in one or both of the front lines. Each brake circuit runs diagonally, so R-R is together with L-F, etc. When changing the brake pipe, you got enough air so the air moved into the other connecting lines.

You have to bleed all 4. The only way I've ever gotten away without doing all 4, is if the system doesn't drain.

ok I bled all 4 and got a good pedal until I turned the engine on then it all went to mush and I can push the pedal to the floor. The brakes work and I got the abs light code which is the rear left sensor so thats next on the agenda. Also how do you bleed the abs system?? Thanks

UK & USA Accords can be different, so excuse me for asking...
Does yours have one of these (ABS modulator assembly with it's own fluid reservoir) in the engine compartment?
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...SV20_B2410.gif
The bleed valve isn't shown as it's own separt part number, but it's drawn at the front of the main modulator block, directly below the low point of the fluid reservoir.

Bleed the main brakes first. I don't know the bleeding order, but if you get it wrong the worst is that you may have to go around a couple times to work out all the air. Unless you find something specific, try RR-LF-LR-RF.

THEN bleed the ABS like this...
Connect a hose securely to the ABS bleed screw. Pressure is high enough to hurt you if you lose control of the hose. Under the rubber cap, there's a plastic insert with a tiny vent hole. Pull that out too so you can pour fluid into the reservoir. Probably don't want to leave it open when running (#4 below)?

1 - Make sure the reservoir is full.
2 - Open the valve very slowly, just enough to flow fluid.
3 - Close it as soon as the flow stops.
4 - Start the engine - the ABS pump will run to re-pressurize the system - stop engine.
5 - Repeat 1, 2, 3, 4 again & again until you're happy that there's no air.

Ok so now I have bled the abs system and replaced a dodgy sensor freed the sliding calipers and regreased them. Bled the brakes again starting rear left (im in the uk) but its still the same. With the engine off the pedal is rock hard but when I start it it drops considerably almost to the floor then if I pump the brakes lightly a couple of times then push hard on the brakes it will bottom out. the brakes are working fine but I have no idea what it might be.
I tried applying light pressure and there was no movement with the engine on and off tried firm pressure with the engine off and there was no movement just a good firm pedal. any sugestions its driving me nuts