I just picked up a 97 coupe, auto tranny, 2.2l, 152k for pretty cheap, but it won't pass smog because the timing is set at 34* when it should be at 15*. I've tried manually setting the timing, but moving the distributor did nothing. I had the connector under the glove box jumped, cel came on, but I wasn't able to retard it at all. Did I do something wrong? Skip a step, maybe? Could anything else cause the timing to go that far advanced? Thanks in advance

 

Starting 1996, spark timing is controlled by the TDC sensor at the crankshaft pulley. Twisting the distributor won't adjust it.

I can't imagine an easy way for it to be that far off. Someone would have to take off the crankshaft pulley & grind out the mounting holes in the TDC sensor. And it probably wouldn't run that well if that were done.

You can check something else, just to rule it out. The timing notches in the outer rim of the crankshaft pulley can move out of alignment with true TDC. Either the key isn't properly installed or the outer part of the pulley has slipped a bit. In either case, your timing is actually correct, but the shop's measurement is off.

1. There's a steel bar key supposed to be installed at the crankshaft timing sprockets & the outer pulley. If that's messed up, say a key that's too short is installed, it might hold the timing sprockets but allow the pulley to move out of alignment.

2. The crankshaft pulley has a layer of hard rubber to damp vibrations. That can get old or get oily & allow the outer rim of the pulley to move relative to it's center hub.

So... Take out the #1 spark plug & poke something down there, like a long screwdriver. Use that to see whether the piston actually comes to TDC at the same time as the timing marks on the pulley.

 

To add to the above you should also put the crank/harmonic balancer pulley at TDC with the cam at TDC for the no. 1 cylinder and check that the cam pulley as at TDC. If the timing belt is off by one tooth the car would still run, but that would create a mechanical issue by either retarding or advancing the timing depending on how the belt was put on, and the computer would not be able to fully compensate for it. Just my thought for something that is free to do yourself before chasing your tail any further.

 

Attached is an excerpt from the September 1997 Honda Service News regarding the change for the 96-97 Accord 4 cylinders.

 

Is your distributor slotted at the mounting holes?

The reason I ask is I just went thru this, I cant explain why my car is like it is, but it is. Production date is 9/95 so maybe some old and new parts were mixed, but on mine you set the timing just like in the video in this thread link provided. Good luck. Welcome to the site.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I'm gonna tear into it tonight to see if the timing gears are correct, at least it's a start. As far as the distributor being slotted, it is, but one of the bolts needs to be removed completely before it will turn, plus this does nothing as far as adjustment.

 

For 96 & 97 the distributor was still slotted, but like you said turning it didn't do anything. Wasn't until the 1998 re-design before they actually removed the slots.

 

So, with the tdc mark on the crankshaft pulley set to zero, the #1 piston is up and the cam pully marks are where they should be. Also looking down from the top, I can see that the pully below the cam is on its mark as well. Should I pull the crank pulley and take the lower timing cover off too?

The dist cap and rotor were pretty shot, as well as the plug wires. Could the need for a tune up cause the CPU to advance the timing this far?

 

Sounds like the timing belt is set on the crank/cam pulleys.

Bad maintenance items could mess up the timing.

I'd suggest getting Honda OEM, NGK, or Denso plug wires. The OEM ones are expensive, but seem to last forever. I like the Honda cap and rotors for the extra money too, but aftermarket cap/rotors are ok.

 

Check the spark plugs too. Only get NGK ZFR5F-11 plugs that most auto parts stores sell.