AC help, replaced all major components.
#11
07-19-2018, 12:27 PM
You are right you do not have to raise the RPMs to fill your compressor but you will see a difference if you do.
Before you performed your ac maintenance was your ac running cold or warm? I'm trying to figure out why change a part that was not the initial issue before the work was done?
Before you performed your ac maintenance was your ac running cold or warm? I'm trying to figure out why change a part that was not the initial issue before the work was done?
#12
07-19-2018, 12:33 PM
You replaced almost everything in the system twice except for the evaporator. Were these new Honda OEM parts, or aftermarket?
RPM on the engine shouldn't make a difference when charging with R-134a.
Is it possible that you got the evaporator installed out of line, where hot outside air is not flowing through the evaporator?
When you turn on the a/c with the engine running, do both fans on the radiator turn on?
Is there any debris on the radiator preventing air flow?
Does the a/c clutch stay engaged when the engine is running and the a/c is turned on?
Sorry for the random questions, but the cause of the problem is not obvious.
RPM on the engine shouldn't make a difference when charging with R-134a.
Is it possible that you got the evaporator installed out of line, where hot outside air is not flowing through the evaporator?
When you turn on the a/c with the engine running, do both fans on the radiator turn on?
Is there any debris on the radiator preventing air flow?
Does the a/c clutch stay engaged when the engine is running and the a/c is turned on?
Sorry for the random questions, but the cause of the problem is not obvious.
-Both fans turn on when AC button is pressed.
-No debris on radiator.
-AC clutch stays engaged when the AC is turned on.
#13
07-19-2018, 01:27 PM
Below is my center vent at 96 degrees with car just starting up idled for 5 mins.
If the valve does not work look at air in the system.
If the valve does not work look at air in the system.
Last edited by Seanjordan20; 10-15-2018 at 07:16 PM.
#16
07-19-2018, 08:20 PM
You should download the 94 shop manual from the hondahookup site. There is a link in the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum.
Here is the test protocol for the 94 accord, which is identical to your 95.
Avoid direct sunlight.
Open hood
Open front doors.
Set temperature to max cool.
Vent set to recirculate
Blower motor to max speed
Run engine at 1500 rpm with nobody in the car. (you may need to raise rpm by pulling the throttle cable.
After 10 minutes, record the high and low pressure. Center vent temperature. Also the outside air temperature and humidity level.
With that information, you can figure out what measurement is out of range (high pressure, low pressure, and delivery temp) and the manual gives you possible causes.
Take a look at the sight glass. I think it is near the receiver/drier. Do you see air bubbles?
Here is the test protocol for the 94 accord, which is identical to your 95.
Avoid direct sunlight.
Open hood
Open front doors.
Set temperature to max cool.
Vent set to recirculate
Blower motor to max speed
Run engine at 1500 rpm with nobody in the car. (you may need to raise rpm by pulling the throttle cable.
After 10 minutes, record the high and low pressure. Center vent temperature. Also the outside air temperature and humidity level.
With that information, you can figure out what measurement is out of range (high pressure, low pressure, and delivery temp) and the manual gives you possible causes.
Take a look at the sight glass. I think it is near the receiver/drier. Do you see air bubbles?
#17
07-20-2018, 02:38 AM
Park your car in the shade and let it cool completely down. Start it up and let it get to operating temp and then turn the temp **** to full blue and without turning the ac on, turn the blower on hot and see if the air is cool to rule out the blend door somehow being stuck open and letting hot air blend with cold ac air.
#19
07-20-2018, 12:21 PM
You should download the 94 shop manual from the hondahookup site. There is a link in the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum.
Here is the test protocol for the 94 accord, which is identical to your 95.
Avoid direct sunlight.
Open hood
Open front doors.
Set temperature to max cool.
Vent set to recirculate
Blower motor to max speed
Run engine at 1500 rpm with nobody in the car. (you may need to raise rpm by pulling the throttle cable.
After 10 minutes, record the high and low pressure. Center vent temperature. Also the outside air temperature and humidity level.
With that information, you can figure out what measurement is out of range (high pressure, low pressure, and delivery temp) and the manual gives you possible causes.
Take a look at the sight glass. I think it is near the receiver/drier. Do you see air bubbles?
Here is the test protocol for the 94 accord, which is identical to your 95.
Avoid direct sunlight.
Open hood
Open front doors.
Set temperature to max cool.
Vent set to recirculate
Blower motor to max speed
Run engine at 1500 rpm with nobody in the car. (you may need to raise rpm by pulling the throttle cable.
After 10 minutes, record the high and low pressure. Center vent temperature. Also the outside air temperature and humidity level.
With that information, you can figure out what measurement is out of range (high pressure, low pressure, and delivery temp) and the manual gives you possible causes.
Take a look at the sight glass. I think it is near the receiver/drier. Do you see air bubbles?
#20
07-20-2018, 12:22 PM
Park your car in the shade and let it cool completely down. Start it up and let it get to operating temp and then turn the temp **** to full blue and without turning the ac on, turn the blower on hot and see if the air is cool to rule out the blend door somehow being stuck open and letting hot air blend with cold ac air.