Hi guys! I am changing (or trying to change) the timing belts on my 99 accord. I have hit a wall trying to get that crankcase pulley bolt off. It is on there SUPER tight. I read it's supposed to be on there @ around 180 ft lbs but given what most shops do to just my oil drain plug and lugnuts i'm thinking it's on there WAY tighter - especially given the car probably hadn't had it changed before I bought the car and that was almost 100k miles ago

I bought a removal tool which is basically a 50mm hex bolt that fits inside the crankcase and holds it in place so you can break the bolt w/ a 19mm socket.

Right now I've got the removal tool pinned to the ground w/ a breaker bar. I've got a leverage arm contraption consisting of an extension connected to a breaker bar connected to a 4 ft steel pipe which is all supported by a jack and a block of wood to try and focus the torque directly on the bolt itself by minimizing downward force. i am just shy of 200 lbs and i can do a pullup on that bar w/out breaking the bolt.

I am more or less at a loss @ what to do next. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks!

 

Some repair shops will break it loose for free with an impact wrench and just leave it tight enough for you to drive it home.

 

not a bad idea... the problem is i've already taken off the ps and alternator belts, drained the radiator, the oil, removed the the sparks and taken the engine cover off. i would prefer that be the last resort ;p

 

Instead of a pull up, try a jump....

EDIT: something kind of like this honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1908944

 

I hope you're pulling CCW? I use the same arrangement you describe and have found that I can always break the bolt. I'm only 165 lbs dripping wet. W/ a 4-ft lever arm, it takes most of what I can do to break the bolt, so perhaps 600-800 ft-lbs. If you're getting that kinda torque w/o results, you have a problem.

I would suggest trying to rent or borrow an acetylene torch w/ a heating tip. Heat bolt very hot. This expands bolt length slightly and releases from end washer contact where most of resistance is located. I've tried this w/ a propane/butane torch w/o any observable improvement. Apparently you need the heat input of acetylene to heat the bolt effectively.

W/ your present desription, I'm doubtful a good 1/2" air impact will break the bolt. It will take a 3/4 or 1 inch air impact and good air supply to do this job. These can be rented at some locations.

good luck

 

There are a 100 examples Ive seen on how to do it, Its on there SUPER tight, Ill try to find the Video I have of how to do it...

 

you guys are so awesome. thanks for the quick replies - maybe i just needed a bit more confidence hearing that others have A-had similar problems and B-got it to work.

i wonder if there would be some way to brace everything and lower the car using the car's weight to break the bolt

 

yeeah - there is is a pretty awesome youtube vid actually:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RE-pzP8g_x4

and this one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CridrQKj3E

 

YAH, U got it... Thats the Video I was looking for...Good luck man !

 

Before I had a compressor I had a 2ft breaker bar with a 6ft pipe on the end and I had to put all I had into it to get it off.

Even with my impact I have to run it at the maximum PSI which is 6-700ft/lbs.