Well, the ABS light has been on ever since my wife and I started dating about 4 or 5 years ago. I don't think it is that. Every time you crank the car the light is off, I can hear the ABS modulator doing its thing, then you back up and "click" then the light pops on (seems like a wheel sensor problem.) I've been meaning to ask this extra question: Is the ABS unit a sealed system? How in the crap do I check the fluid and add if I need to? I can see what looks like the plastic reservoir (itindicates it isABS on it in tiny letters). I think I'll take a picture of it tonight and show you what I am looking at.
I think the ABS still works though. I've had to slam on the brakes to avoid rear ending a slow moving camper one day when I wasn't paying 100% attention. The brakes did not lock up and the ABS seemed to be doing their thing. That's why I haven't addressed the ABS light issue yet either.

I cranked the car this morning with the hood open. My wife was still getting ready so wasn't available to assist me. I heard the whirring noise for about 1 second, but of course by the time I scurried around to see under the hood, the noise had stopped. I swear it sounds like a squeaky pully though.
Still no more erratic idle on startup. I think this car is playing with me.

 

The ABS in '95 has it's own reservoir and you should bleed that when you bleed brakes. You can read ABS error codes by jumpering the SCS connector. Look around for posts (by ME) about that stuff.

The following applies if it's working properly. Depending on what ABS error you have, this may or may not work...

The ABS reservoir has a rubber cap, then a funny plug inside with a pinhole vent. Take out that plug& the opening is still pretty small for pouring fluid in.

There should be a bleed valve somewhere on the ABS unit, maybe sticking up next to the reservoir. Get a hose that fits good & keep it under control. There's enough pressure to cut thru your skin if you're sloppy. Open the bleed valve ONLY JUST ENOUGH to allow fluid out. Close as soon as it stops flowing.

Refill the reservoir & start the engine. The ABS will re-pressurize itself by running longer than normal. (I don't know if you can get the pump to run without actually starting the engine.) Repeat until you don't get any bubbles. Normally you do this first, then bleed your wheel brakes.

Your 2000 Accord has a completely different ABS system that doesn't need bleeding separately from the wheels.

 

#4 = ABS brake fluidreservoir
#20 = bleed screw

 

Yeah I noticed the rubber nipple thing over what appeared to be a pinhole sized onening. I guess I didn'trealize that was a plug. I see the filler cap system #'s 12,13, & 14 in the picture. I'll probably go monkey around with it tonight. I can't really tell how much fluid is in there.Didn't bleed the ABS when brake master cylinder was changedcause was notpositive thatit was functioning.

My 2000 LX doesn't have ABS

Yeah I had read your posts before about getting the ABS codes. I just haven't felt like cramming my 230lb @$$ into the passenger side floor yet. I think I may have located the connector last night though. Plus I keep forgetting to bring a stupid paper clip home from work and I can't find a single one in my house!

 

I'd bet your wife has a bobby pin!?!

 

...or a stereo wire, a pair of needle nose pliars, an old fork you can bend up, a voltmeter lead, a coat hanger with the ends ground down, A staple...

 

is a staple big enough to hold in place? ..... can't forget about the spiral binding on a notebook!

 

The code stored on the ABS will direct you to the problem. Make sure that the unit is filled with brake fluid.

There were problems with the 94-96 modulators where they would leak fluid. I posted the TSB below.

I have to put the second page as a seperate post, because the combined file size is too larg.

I wish we could post pdfs on here. Can an admin change this for us?




[IMG]local://upfiles/5767/A63E3B80DFC64D08975779612E5631B0.jpg[/IMG]

 

and here is the second page.

[IMG]local://upfiles/5767/8F8A086E22FC47E3AAFECC1E27AAC5B0.jpg[/IMG]

 

Thanks for the ABS help!
I located the funky noise. It's coming from the driver's side fan. The engine still hasn't duplicated the crappy idle yet. Sometimes I think the strong exhaust smell is still there though.