Blown Small Lights Fuse
The small lights fuse under the hood keeps blowing. I’m not sure if it’s grounding out or if it’s the combination switch. I got a couple packs of fuses to test this morning.
The fuse doesn’t blow with the headlights off, regardless of the key position or if it’s running. Initially, the fuse did not blow with 1) the key in the off position and the lights on, and 2) the key in the number 2 position and the lights on. However, when I cranked and turned the lights on, it blew. After that, the fuse blows whenever I turn the lights on, even if the key isn’t in it. Next step? |
What fuse no. or fuse box position is blowing?
The dimmer control seems to be a common fault. Another common fault is the cigarette lighter. good luck |
Fuse #32. When it blows, I lose taillights & dash lights.
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Most likely component on fuse 32 circuit is the dimmer control unit. It's easy to remove (pry out carefully w/ small screwdriver). Jumper red wire to ground or to blk wire pin (ground also). If this stops the fuse from blowing, you've confirmed the dimmer control is shorting red/blk to ground.
If dimmer is not the problem (fuse blows again), then combination switch is next most likely component (short to ground in switch). To test this switch will require removing the steering wheel cover and accessing the connector to the combination switch. Disconnect body harness connector from switch harness connector and check (switch side harness) whether Red/BlK pin is shorted to blk pin w/ switch On (it should be open). If combination switch checks good, you'll have to sequentially disconnect the components (interior lights, panel lights, cigarette lighter light, etc) until you find the component w/ a short. It could also be a wiring fault; pinched wire, bare wire touching ground. You need a wiring diagram to support you. Check Online Manuals for links to 94-97 Accord manual. good luck good luck |
Thanks. The dimmer switch checked out. I'll try the combination switch this weekend. The combination switch doesn't have to come from an identical model as mine (LX coupe), does it?
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I don't know but suspect they're same for all Accords. Check car-part.com for parts and it will show donor vehicles.
good luck |
I finally found a combination (headlight) switch at Pull-a-Part, but no luck. Still blowing the fuse. I also disconnected the wiring harnesses in the trunk. There was a little water that had collected in the right front turn light, so I also disconnected it with no luck. I plan to replace the turn light next :)
Where should I look next? Grounded wire? Any places I should start looking first? Something else I missed? |
#32 feeds the combination light switch first. Unplug the combination switch and see if a new fuse blows.
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The only time the fuse blows is when I turn on the headlights.
To start with, I pulled the dimmer switch and it still blew. Today, I changed the combination switch and it blew with the replacement switch installed. I started it and it didn't blow with the combination switch unplugged, but again, it only blows when I turn the lights on. I'm at a loss :o |
The fuse you are blowing protects the red/green wire going to the combination switch. When you turn on the headlights, the red/green wire is connected to the red/blk wire.
That red/blk wire powers a lot of lights: both front parking lights both rear side marker light both taillights both license plate lights dash light brightness controller and dash lights glovebox light heater control panel lights integrated control unit passenger vanity mirror You can inspect the electrical connections on all of these bulbs to see if there is some bare wire hitting metal? One way that you can isolate the problem is to unplug these items and see if the fuse blows when you turn the lights on. In the wiring diagram, there is a junction connector C552 that is in the left side of the trunk. This connector feeds power to all the lights mentioned above in the trunk. I would guess that it is near the power window antenna. If you unplug that, and the fuse blows, then the wiring in the trunk is not the problem. |
Thanks! I'll attempt to do this in the next day or so. Basically, I just pull each bulb and see if the fuse blows, correct?
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Well, if the wire before some bulb is shorted (bare wire touching metal) then it'll blow even when all bulbs are removed.
Better to unplug parts of the circult and measure resistance to ground. When you find one branch that has nearly zero resistance to ground, then you've narrowed down your search to that branch. It can become a very tedious PITA if the short it hidden somewhere. |
hey guys - how bout an update?
seems like a common problem, cause I'm seeing it several times. temper-mental issues, but we wanna hear how they're fixed by different peeps. Update would help dalejamin. Thanks |
No problem. I couldn't figure it out, so I took it to my Grandfather's mechanic. He couldn't figure it out either, so he removed the fuse and replaced it with a in-line circuit breaker. Definitely not the best or recommended solution since it treates the symptom and not the underlying cause, but I've not had any problems with the lights going out since. I've kept an eye on it, though.
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Originally Posted by bigginsUT
(Post 248673)
hey guys - how bout an update?
seems like a common problem, cause I'm seeing it several times. temper-mental issues, but we wanna hear how they're fixed by different peeps. Update would help dalejamin. Thanks Thanks. |
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