Need help on clutch on 1990 accord. I replaced clutch assembly,slave cyl and clutch master.
I cannot get hydralic pressure after bleeding system. I checked and double check for leaks but cannot locate any. It has a clutch damper and I guess only came out in 1990 and 91 models. I cannot find anything to tell me what thats suppose to do and maybe have a diaphram in it causing air in system?

I have bleed system with vacuum as well as old fashion way but still can't get pressure.

Any help greatle appreciated

 

If you have bleed it right, it's possible the new parts are bad... New <> good all the time. Trick is, to determine which one it is.

 

Thanks for reply Bill, I have replace both slave and master twice and still the same thing. You have any idea on clutch damper? I wonder if Im get my leak through there?

 

What's your "old-fashioned" way of bleeding? Have you tried pushing fluid into the bleeder (into the slave)? That way you're pushing fluid uphill, and you aren't fighting against gravity to push air bubbles downhill.

 

I did it two ways first i tried with vaccum system from slave I would build vacuum up the opened bleeder to draw fluid. Then I try pump clutch the send to the floor open and close bleeder at slave. I have a hose attached to the bleeder so I dont get air back through it.

How do you do the reverse sending fluid up hill?

Thanks
Has anyone experence problem with the clutch damper? I am wondering before I go to wrecking yard since no longer available at dealer. I not sure if there is a valve or diaphram inside that unit?

 

This is a nifty bleed kit for clutch/brakes. It works great! Motive Products #1 Selling DIY Brake Bleeder

 

On a web search for the clutch damper I didn't find a trust-able reference for what it does but it seems reasonable that is prevents you from popping the clutch. There are a lot of references to people replacing it with a flexible line made to eliminate it. It could have a different bleeding procedure.

 

Reverse bleeding either uses a pressure bleeder (like the Motive one) or something similar. I've seen something inexpensive at AutoZone that resembles a hypodermic syringe. It's supposed to be for measuring & putting oil into fuel for 2-stroke engines. But you fill it with brake fluid, put the hose onto the clutch-slave bleed screw, and push the fluid INTO the slave.

The whole idea (regardless of equipment) is that you push fluid uphill. Inject it into the slave, then suck excess from the master-reservoir.

Another thing when pumping the pedal. I tie a string around the pedal to pull it up. But don't let it snap upwards, control it with your foot. Snapping quickly upwards seems to suck air into the system.

 

Thanks, for info. This is where I'm at with this. replaced both master and slave twice. finally getting a little pressue on pedal but still lot of slop. Have adjusted rod for free play on pedal. had it adjust to full extention still lots of slop.

No longer can get OEM parts from dealer, but found carquest to have access to Honda units. I bought these parts from orilleys and been reading on line regarding issue with after market master cyl. Has anyone had same experience? Going to order one in and try it.

I took transmission out originally cause throw out bearing was binding. I found that one of the ears that holds throw out to the fork was broken. I looked but had nothing to compare fork if it was bent. everying looked good. I really think problem is in the hydralic system.

Been a real frustrating project. Any more feed back greatly appreciated.

 

Once you get pressure in the clutch pedal, you need to restore the pushrod length where it belongs. Hydraulic MC needs to be in the correct position (when you're not pressing down the pedal) where the vent opens to the reservoir. If you've got a manual, do the pedal-height adjustment without going high or low for personal preference.