diagnosing battery drain
It's not the fuse cause the meter comes on and shows numbers. I replaced to battery just to make sure, but I think the meter has been toasted somehow. It just doesn't do anything right (reading voltage from a battery, an OHM test, etc). It's just giving wacky numbers so matter what I do. I'm a little nervous to get a new meter and try again for fear of destroying it to.
Anything wrong with the process I used? I disconnected the positive lead from the car battery. Attached the positive lead from the meter to that cable. Then attached the other meter lead to the positive battery post. On the meter I turned it to the DC/a section. Any issues with this?
Anything wrong with the process I used? I disconnected the positive lead from the car battery. Attached the positive lead from the meter to that cable. Then attached the other meter lead to the positive battery post. On the meter I turned it to the DC/a section. Any issues with this?
if you're unsure about your meter working correctly, get a test light, disconnect the neg batt cable and put the test light in series between the cable and neg post. it will light up or glow if you have a draw(depending on how much), then pull the alternator connection and see what happens.
It's not the fuse cause the meter comes on and shows numbers. I replaced to battery just to make sure, but I think the meter has been toasted somehow. It just doesn't do anything right (reading voltage from a battery, an OHM test, etc). It's just giving wacky numbers so matter what I do. I'm a little nervous to get a new meter and try again for fear of destroying it to.
Anything wrong with the process I used? I disconnected the positive lead from the car battery. Attached the positive lead from the meter to that cable. Then attached the other meter lead to the positive battery post. On the meter I turned it to the DC/a section. Any issues with this?
Anything wrong with the process I used? I disconnected the positive lead from the car battery. Attached the positive lead from the meter to that cable. Then attached the other meter lead to the positive battery post. On the meter I turned it to the DC/a section. Any issues with this?

CAUTION: DO NOT MAKE CURRENT MEASUREMENTS AT 10 AMPS FOR LONGER THAN 30 SECONDS. EXCEEDING 30 SECONDS MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE METER AND/OR TEST LEADS.
I've figured it out guys. I'm now a master mechanic. I connected the battery, and just by happen-stance walked around the back of the car. The brake lights are stuck on. No meter necessary! Thanks for all of the help, and now I know how to check for a voltage drain.
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jon02accord
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Mar 26, 2008 10:54 AM




