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diagnosing battery drain

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Old May 6, 2012 | 11:49 AM
  #11  
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You may want to check the fuse in the volt meter. There is a good ericthecarguy video on a parasitic drain. Use google to find it on youtube.
 
Old May 6, 2012 | 11:55 AM
  #12  
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Check for blown fuses on your meters. It sounds like you've got a pretty big parasitic drain since the battery is running down in eight hours; I don't think 261mA would do it but 2.61A might.
 
Old May 6, 2012 | 09:38 PM
  #13  
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It's not the fuse cause the meter comes on and shows numbers. I replaced to battery just to make sure, but I think the meter has been toasted somehow. It just doesn't do anything right (reading voltage from a battery, an OHM test, etc). It's just giving wacky numbers so matter what I do. I'm a little nervous to get a new meter and try again for fear of destroying it to.

Anything wrong with the process I used? I disconnected the positive lead from the car battery. Attached the positive lead from the meter to that cable. Then attached the other meter lead to the positive battery post. On the meter I turned it to the DC/a section. Any issues with this?
 
Old May 6, 2012 | 09:52 PM
  #14  
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if you're unsure about your meter working correctly, get a test light, disconnect the neg batt cable and put the test light in series between the cable and neg post. it will light up or glow if you have a draw(depending on how much), then pull the alternator connection and see what happens.
 
Old May 6, 2012 | 09:56 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by TitanTn
It's not the fuse cause the meter comes on and shows numbers. I replaced to battery just to make sure, but I think the meter has been toasted somehow. It just doesn't do anything right (reading voltage from a battery, an OHM test, etc). It's just giving wacky numbers so matter what I do. I'm a little nervous to get a new meter and try again for fear of destroying it to.

Anything wrong with the process I used? I disconnected the positive lead from the car battery. Attached the positive lead from the meter to that cable. Then attached the other meter lead to the positive battery post. On the meter I turned it to the DC/a section. Any issues with this?
Generally, a parasitic drain test is done on the negative battery cable and post. On the meter, which jack did you plug the red lead into?
 
Old May 7, 2012 | 09:49 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by TitanTn
I disconnected the positive lead from the car battery. Attached the positive lead from the meter to that cable. Then attached the other meter lead to the positive battery post. On the meter I turned it to the DC/a section. Any issues with this?
Yes, if your meter has a separate high-amp section. Most have a 10A or 20A section that requires the red lead to be plugged into a separate jack:
Note the duty cycle warning:
CAUTION: DO NOT MAKE CURRENT MEASUREMENTS AT 10 AMPS FOR LONGER THAN 30 SECONDS. EXCEEDING 30 SECONDS MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE METER AND/OR TEST LEADS.
 
Old May 7, 2012 | 06:50 PM
  #17  
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I've figured it out guys. I'm now a master mechanic. I connected the battery, and just by happen-stance walked around the back of the car. The brake lights are stuck on. No meter necessary! Thanks for all of the help, and now I know how to check for a voltage drain.
 
Old May 7, 2012 | 06:55 PM
  #18  
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On the switch for the brake pedal, look for a rubber piece that pushes the button of the brake switch. Sometimes they fall off and cause this problem.
 
Old May 7, 2012 | 07:15 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by TitanTn
I've figured it out guys. I'm now a master mechanic. I connected the battery, and just by happen-stance walked around the back of the car. The brake lights are stuck on. No meter necessary! Thanks for all of the help, and now I know how to check for a voltage drain.
Glad you found it!
 
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