You're welcome and thanks for reporting back the results. I am a little tired today from running around taking care of family things. I will think about the rear window problem and may post back later or another day.

There may be a reset procedure to perform to get the driver's door multiplex control unit to communicate correctly with the MICU under the dash. Also, the rear switch and window regulator can be tested. -- I'm just very tired right now.

 

Reset:

- doesn't list replacement of the MICU as one of the resons for doing this?

1. Turn Ign switch to ON/pos II

2. Move the drivers window all the way down using the drivers window switch

3. Open the drivers door

Note 4-7 must be done within five seconds of each other.

4. Turn ign switch off.

5. Push and hold the drivers window DOWN switch

6. Turn Ign switch ON/pos II

7. Release the drivers window DOWN switch

8. Repeat 4 thru 7 three more times (? - you got me but that is what it says)

9. Wait one second

10. Confirm Auto Up and Auto Down do not work. If Auto up and down work...go back to step #1

11. Move the drivers window down by holding the drivers window switch in the auto down position.

12. Pull up the drivers window UP switch up to the Auto UP position until the wondow reaches the fully closed position, continue to hold the switch for one second.

13. Confirm the drivers window switch is reset by using the Auto Up and Auto Down

 

Check the #24, 20 amp fuse for the window.

 

This is a shorter reset procedure to enable the auto function for the power windows from the owner's manual. (See attached pic.)

The rear power window problem may or may not be related it.

 

I like that one much better than the service manual

 

Hi friend. Me too.

 

Hi,

Thanks guys, I will try this tomorrow, I haven't been able to try it because it's been cold and raining in my area. I will post back my results.

Thanks again!

 

Hi guys,

I wanted to thank you for all the help you provided back in 2012. I apologize that I didn't post back sooner. I had many personal troubles and crisis and just wasn't able to follow up on the car anymore until now.

The rear window issue never got fixed. later in 2013 the drivers side window's motor gave out. I actually heard it making a grinding noise going up as it was dying. I finished pulling it up all the way with my hands as it started to rain. Anyhow, I drove it like that until last week when I just bought a window regulator (with the motor it is one piece), now the window goes up and down. The auto wasn't working so I remember this forum and decided to come back for the reset procedure to turn on the auto.

The auto doesn't come back at least not correctly. Only the auto to go down works and this only after I held the window down two seconds after it was fully down (opposite the directions provided by red bull). Which makes me wonder if there's something wrong with the wiring.

What is also a concern is that as I drive or as I sit in the car (with the car on) I hear the motor (for the window) making a two sound clicking sound (like a clock) it does it about every 30 seconds or a minute sometimes. Also, if I bring the window all the way up it gets stuck 8/10 times (so it won't go down when pressing the button).

I thought maybe the buttons weren't making good contact so I took the master switch out from the drivers side and open it up (just a few screws), the white plastic pieces that move the lever in the circuit board seems to make good contact and in good shape. But the main button for the driver's window seems to have a little extra play. I don't know if this is because it is design like that for the auto up/down to work so one position is for the auto and the full position is for the manual up/down. I am not sure. If not it's probably bad from too much pushing and it may be why it is getting stuck up because when I press it a certain way from the center then down on the button then the window seems to start working again (going down from the stuck up position).

But it is weird that the clock ticking sounds is audible every 30 to 60 seconds. It is so annoying to drive with this. I am afraid that it may have a bad ground. When the dealer took out the aftermarket alarm, they cut a green wire from the main switch (master switch on driver's side) and left it open (no tape) and the other end of the green cable was left inside the door frame also no tape. I had pictures but my computer was reformatted and I believe I lost them. I will search for them if someone wants to see them. I do believe however, that this green wire for the aftermarket alarm I vaguely remember tracing this to the alarm box. I taped this cut wires before connecting the window regulator.

Since I replaced the actuators for the door locks, the MICU unit and window regulator, I am thinking may as well replace this master switch to at least eliminate it out of the picture. I am thinking if after replacing the master switch I still hear the clock ticking noise then it must really be something bad with the wiring.

I am having a hard time finding the correct wiring scheme for my car. I bought an online pdf manual but the color code doesn't seem to match what I have but I am a little color blind so I will get some confirmation next weekend with some help just to make sure but I wanted to post this info in case anyone has any feedback.

Thanks again for the team for all the help provided.

 

This morning I followed went back to check the wiring mostly to make sure the grounds were working. And they seem to be okay with the test I ran using the black wire in the main switch to other positive wires and it was correct. I also checked the black wire (ground) on the connector attached to the window motor and it was okay.

I also ran the tests on the manual to check the motor (for windows regulator) here:
Check for voltage between the terminals.
�� There should be battery voltage between the No. 6 (+) and No. 5 (-) terminals when the ignition switch is ON (II).
�� Connect an analog voltmeter between the No. 2 (+) and No. 5 (-) terminals, and run the window motor down or up. The voltmeter needle should move back and forth alternately (a digital voltmeter should show the average voltage between 0-5 V).
�� Connect an analog voltmeter between the No. 3 (+) and No. 5 (-) terminals, and run the window motor at down or up. The voltmeter needle should move back and forth alternately. if no voltage replace the driver's window motor.


Now, all the tests were right on spec as the manual said. So I don't understand why these motor is making the clock ticking sound every ~30 seconds. I noticed the top silver/grey part of the motor is very very hot. Is it supposed to be like this? It had not been used as I turned it on this morning and it was kind of cool.

As a note, I did the reset procedure in the manual (the longer method posted here) and this worked (fixed the auto up and down).

Now, I checked and there's no voltage readings when pressing the button up or down for the left rear window and when I did it for the right fromt window it was weird because it started to go up and down. THen it wouldn't work from the drivers main switch control or the passengers. Turned the car off and on then the passenger's started to work but not from the drivers side.

any help on this one is appreciated. THanks

 

Just in case anyone else is having this same issues as I did, I want to let everyone know that the window issue on the driver side was solved by replacing the master switch. I ordered from ebay OEM and it worked.

The clock clicking noise that I heard disappeared as soon as I put in the new switch on the driver's side. Now, the passenger's window had stopped working when I testing the voltage on the master switch (the old one) but when I put in the new switch on the driver's side the passenger's window started to work again. I programmed the auto function again and it works nice.

As a side note the left driver's rear window still doesn't work as posted in the first page of this post. I am not sure what's going on there but that happened when I installed the Main MCU unit (maybe it was defective). but that's okay, after all this trouble and time I am good with this.

The other issue is that the keyless remote control (for the alarm) doesn't unlock/lock the doors anymore, I guess cause of the new switch. I tried to reprogram it with the steps here unsuccessfully:

http://www.justanswer.com/honda/2y9j...rs-window.html

I will keep looking around to see if I can fix this without taking it in to the dealer since I paid for this already and it was over $100 bucks, sucks to pay again.

I will post if I have any luck.