new member, 91 accord ex with a few issues.
#1
05-26-2011, 10:56 AM
new member, 91 accord ex with a few issues.
.Hi, all.
My name is Stephen, and I just signed up for the forum today.
I have a 1991 Accord EX with a 5 speed manual transmission (transaxle...yeah I know).
The engine was an F22A4. It lost oil pressure and broke the camshaft.
The replacement was also an F22A4...it didn't run right.
The replacement replacement is an F22A6 long block with the A4 intake and exhaust. Yes I know I'm losing power and not using the A6 to its fullest. I don't care. It runs, and that's all that matters with this car.
Now for the problems.
1. The engine runs rough at idle and shutters on acceleration. It only happens after the engine warms up. When it's cold it runs like a top and will chirp the tires (have to get used to a clutch again). My research suggests that it is related to the EGR. Either the valve or the passages. I'm going to take out the plugs and clean the ports and egr valve and verify the valve works with a vaccuum pump.
2. Irritating. Speedometer. It doesn't work. Neither does the odometer. I know it's an electronic speedo. I changed the vss with one from the junkyard, including the gear and its housing because the little tab on mine was broken off. The replacement vcc came from a 91 wagon with a manual, but looked different. It still plugged in to the connector. I'm guessing the one from the wagon was a replacement part because it looks like the one from the parts stores.
The tach, fuel gauge, and temp gauge work fine. The speedo and odometer don't work. No flickering nor intermittent operation.
This is where I need help. Since I replaced the entire thing, I had to disconnect the two hoses. What fluid goes through those hoses? what does that fluid do? Where does it go? can it be refilled, or does it get pumped from the transaxle oil? It looks like that to me. Could that be my problem? The speedo worked when we got the car, but started acting weird (intermittently) after I replaced the thermostata. Which spilled a little coolant onto the back of the trans.
Thanks.
Stephen.
My name is Stephen, and I just signed up for the forum today.
I have a 1991 Accord EX with a 5 speed manual transmission (transaxle...yeah I know).
The engine was an F22A4. It lost oil pressure and broke the camshaft.
The replacement was also an F22A4...it didn't run right.
The replacement replacement is an F22A6 long block with the A4 intake and exhaust. Yes I know I'm losing power and not using the A6 to its fullest. I don't care. It runs, and that's all that matters with this car.
Now for the problems.
1. The engine runs rough at idle and shutters on acceleration. It only happens after the engine warms up. When it's cold it runs like a top and will chirp the tires (have to get used to a clutch again). My research suggests that it is related to the EGR. Either the valve or the passages. I'm going to take out the plugs and clean the ports and egr valve and verify the valve works with a vaccuum pump.
2. Irritating. Speedometer. It doesn't work. Neither does the odometer. I know it's an electronic speedo. I changed the vss with one from the junkyard, including the gear and its housing because the little tab on mine was broken off. The replacement vcc came from a 91 wagon with a manual, but looked different. It still plugged in to the connector. I'm guessing the one from the wagon was a replacement part because it looks like the one from the parts stores.
The tach, fuel gauge, and temp gauge work fine. The speedo and odometer don't work. No flickering nor intermittent operation.
This is where I need help. Since I replaced the entire thing, I had to disconnect the two hoses. What fluid goes through those hoses? what does that fluid do? Where does it go? can it be refilled, or does it get pumped from the transaxle oil? It looks like that to me. Could that be my problem? The speedo worked when we got the car, but started acting weird (intermittently) after I replaced the thermostata. Which spilled a little coolant onto the back of the trans.
Thanks.
Stephen.
#2
05-26-2011, 12:40 PM
I moved your posts to get more exposure.
1) I think you're on the right path w/ EGR system cleaning. You can confirm by temporarily disabling the EGR valve by removing the vacuum supply line and plugging. If symptoms disappear, you know the EGR is cause. This will likely cause the Check Engine Light to come on. Remove BackUp fuse (7.5A) from underhood fuse box for 20 secs to reset.
2) I recollect that their is a hydraulic pump under the VSS which supplies pressure bias to the PS pump to change steering effort (increased) as speed increases. I need a manual (at office w/o one) to confirm this. Maybe someone else can confirm.
good luck
1) I think you're on the right path w/ EGR system cleaning. You can confirm by temporarily disabling the EGR valve by removing the vacuum supply line and plugging. If symptoms disappear, you know the EGR is cause. This will likely cause the Check Engine Light to come on. Remove BackUp fuse (7.5A) from underhood fuse box for 20 secs to reset.
2) I recollect that their is a hydraulic pump under the VSS which supplies pressure bias to the PS pump to change steering effort (increased) as speed increases. I need a manual (at office w/o one) to confirm this. Maybe someone else can confirm.
good luck
#3
07-24-2011, 06:37 PM
OK, all.
I fixed the rough engine. Disconnected the EGR valve vaccuum ling, and no change. Checked the thermal air idle...thingy...with the white plastic. Was fine. Checked and cleaned the IACV...helped a little, but not enough to matter.
I read about someone who had the same symptoms, and had bad plugs/wires. Put in new wires, and while I was at it, went to test the coil. The coil broke when I took it out (it's in the cap). Put a new one in...buttery smooth just like it's supposed to be. I am leaning more toward it being the coil than the wires.
I'm elated, and so is my sister (it's her car).
Now if I can just fix that smurfing speedometer!
I fixed the rough engine. Disconnected the EGR valve vaccuum ling, and no change. Checked the thermal air idle...thingy...with the white plastic. Was fine. Checked and cleaned the IACV...helped a little, but not enough to matter.
I read about someone who had the same symptoms, and had bad plugs/wires. Put in new wires, and while I was at it, went to test the coil. The coil broke when I took it out (it's in the cap). Put a new one in...buttery smooth just like it's supposed to be. I am leaning more toward it being the coil than the wires.
I'm elated, and so is my sister (it's her car).
Now if I can just fix that smurfing speedometer!
#6
07-25-2011, 10:03 AM
By the way, I did test the old coil. It was bad. The secondary resistance was 17,000 ohms, which is in spec, but the primary spec was 0.6-0.8 ohms. I had less than 0.2. It tested at about 0.12. Leads me to thing it was shorted (shorting?) Out, or was just plain worn out. I think it was the original coil from 1991.
#7
07-25-2011, 12:06 PM
IF VSS is faulty, it should set ECU code 17 or TCU code 4. If no code, more likely the movement or guage panel has a fault. Check ebay and car-part for a replacement.
You can confirm VSS output w/ a VOM connected to output signal from VSS. Output is low, near 1V I think. Signal is generated by lifting wheel and turning wheel slowly to turn differential.
Some have apparently managed to repair gauge panels that had circuit board faults.
good luck
You can confirm VSS output w/ a VOM connected to output signal from VSS. Output is low, near 1V I think. Signal is generated by lifting wheel and turning wheel slowly to turn differential.
Some have apparently managed to repair gauge panels that had circuit board faults.
good luck
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