Engine misfire Honda Accord 95
Honda Accord 95, EXI, Auto 2.2L, F22B3
Hi All, Engine is misfiring at hot weather
Was winter in Australia and i noticed one or two misfire during cold start, but car drove fine.
today was hot and turned on AC, going well until car idling at stop light, shaking like anything, idle went down almost stall and in a second recovered, it happened all the way whenever idling at stop, pulled spark plug wire one by one and saw cylinder # 4 misfiring
pulled spark plug and exchanged with cylinder 3 and 4, no improvement, checked cyclinder 4 wire resistance, reading 12K Ohm, strange thing i replaced spark plug 2K ago and they all looked terribly burnt. during misfire alternator voltage to battery reading 13.5V, after two hours, started the car again and seems misfire has gone. didn't drive the car though, only started.
here what i did recently
flushed radiator used cheap premixed coolant
replaced distributor rotor
installed a sub woofer and amplifier, but it doesn't drag too much load from battery, i have checked it.
what should i do, please help
Hi All, Engine is misfiring at hot weather
Was winter in Australia and i noticed one or two misfire during cold start, but car drove fine.
today was hot and turned on AC, going well until car idling at stop light, shaking like anything, idle went down almost stall and in a second recovered, it happened all the way whenever idling at stop, pulled spark plug wire one by one and saw cylinder # 4 misfiring
pulled spark plug and exchanged with cylinder 3 and 4, no improvement, checked cyclinder 4 wire resistance, reading 12K Ohm, strange thing i replaced spark plug 2K ago and they all looked terribly burnt. during misfire alternator voltage to battery reading 13.5V, after two hours, started the car again and seems misfire has gone. didn't drive the car though, only started.
here what i did recently
flushed radiator used cheap premixed coolant
replaced distributor rotor
installed a sub woofer and amplifier, but it doesn't drag too much load from battery, i have checked it.
what should i do, please help
Do the cars "down under" have an egr system, my memory tells me that they do not.
I'd want to see what a compression test of all four cyl told me.....and just so we are clear on the numbering, #1 is the closest to the belts, #4 is the one closest to the trans/dist end.
I'm also assuming the cap and rotor are good as well.....you said the rotor was replaced but not the cap?
I'd want to see what a compression test of all four cyl told me.....and just so we are clear on the numbering, #1 is the closest to the belts, #4 is the one closest to the trans/dist end.
I'm also assuming the cap and rotor are good as well.....you said the rotor was replaced but not the cap?
thanks Poorman, thanks for your clarification
based on your advice, its cylinder # 1 (close to belt)
No EGR for Austalian Car
Replaced distributor rotor and cap, i replaced the shaft seal couple of months ago and there is a plastic cover covering internal coil, that cover is not secured, i tried with super glue but still doubtful, also saw crack on cap where top bolts (over tightening i guess)
this morning during cold found no misfire, start i pulled spark plug wire again and its making difference on cylinder # 1 (it wasn't with hot engine)
spark plug got carbon buildup as they are fairly new
pulled wire from distributor cap end and reddish spark coming out from there, also lead end where it connects dizzy cap seems cracked, although wire resistance within range.
when pulled wire from plug, engine running, its making some clicking burst noise inside the speak plug hole
based on your advice, its cylinder # 1 (close to belt)
No EGR for Austalian Car
Replaced distributor rotor and cap, i replaced the shaft seal couple of months ago and there is a plastic cover covering internal coil, that cover is not secured, i tried with super glue but still doubtful, also saw crack on cap where top bolts (over tightening i guess)
this morning during cold found no misfire, start i pulled spark plug wire again and its making difference on cylinder # 1 (it wasn't with hot engine)
spark plug got carbon buildup as they are fairly new
pulled wire from distributor cap end and reddish spark coming out from there, also lead end where it connects dizzy cap seems cracked, although wire resistance within range.
when pulled wire from plug, engine running, its making some clicking burst noise inside the speak plug hole
Cap, rotor and plugs on these are rated for around 24K miles, sorry I too stupid to convert to KM. So they fall into what I call "regular tune up items" and should be replaced.
Wires are pretty good IF you have an OE set. If not I might let them go twice the amount 48-50K miles. Not sure of the choices where you are but if you can get your hands on NGK or Prestolite wires they would be the ones I personally would go with and should last the 50K with no issues, maybe even more.
I'm hoping this will clear up the issues you are having, I think you are coming into spring/summer though. So if the issues come back after this let us know as there are a few other things we can test.
Wires are pretty good IF you have an OE set. If not I might let them go twice the amount 48-50K miles. Not sure of the choices where you are but if you can get your hands on NGK or Prestolite wires they would be the ones I personally would go with and should last the 50K with no issues, maybe even more.
I'm hoping this will clear up the issues you are having, I think you are coming into spring/summer though. So if the issues come back after this let us know as there are a few other things we can test.
thanks Poorman, I do clean IAC and TB every month
i opened distributor and messed up couple of times, so decided to change the distributor, i am getting second hand OEM plug wires which are good condition.
yesterday i did test electrical voltage supply from battery, turned all load on (AC, Headlight, audio) and found voltage is decreasing very steadily as the car getting warm and warm, in half an hour the alternator voltage went from 14.4 to 13.7V
also when the car starts up from cold (overnight), i do feel couple of misfire when rev goes down from 1500 to 750
i opened distributor and messed up couple of times, so decided to change the distributor, i am getting second hand OEM plug wires which are good condition.
yesterday i did test electrical voltage supply from battery, turned all load on (AC, Headlight, audio) and found voltage is decreasing very steadily as the car getting warm and warm, in half an hour the alternator voltage went from 14.4 to 13.7V
also when the car starts up from cold (overnight), i do feel couple of misfire when rev goes down from 1500 to 750


