f23A jdm swap
 

Hey have not been here sense i introduced my self . Any ways i been chunking out my f23A-1 for a jdm f23A black top. O well my question is on the automatic tranny after i pulled out the motor away from the tranny it spilled all the oil from the torque converter. Before i had a bad tranny leak not sure from where but it would wet from the top like under the starter and work its way around to the bottom. so i am thinking it is coming from the seal from the shaft where the torque converter installs. Does this sound like the solution for the auto tranny leak problem???

It could be the converter seal...that is something I would replace whenever I "see it" for some reason.

I'd also clean around the cv shaft seal on the pass/right side and be sure it is ok.

Well i went to the dealer and got the gasket . installed it now why does the chilton shop manual say that the torque converter should be marked before removal . So when you install back again it needs to be in the same spot before removal. I don't get it the torque does not say up or down or any indicator as for what it is right??? By the way when i say removal i am talking about unbolting it from the plate!;)

The '94 factory service manual doesn't say anything about marking the torque converter position before unbolting it. Maybe the Chilton manual is talking about a manual transmission car's flywheel? FSM:

well i give up if it does not matter i went ahead and installed the motor. but any ways i found out some things. 1) back in the day my 94 f22 vtec kicked the bucket. f23A1 installed. 2) that motor did not have a crank angle sensor @the crank like every one says. Still at the dizzy.2) the intake mani was ob2 so f22 mani went back on the f23A1 so all the obd1 stuff would hook back up. 3) learned that the car never ran good with the f22 mani. Made me feel that the f22 had more hp. 4) this time i am using JDM f23A mani. looks like it flows better and most of the sensors . 5) so i spliced most of the f23A connectors in too my old harness ; that way i get to use almost all the obd2 sensors .except the knock sensor! 5) found out that all the vacuum is still required .But the air that blows to the injector .Also radiator hose connector at the discharge side needs the housing for that temp sensor also sense the jdm did not have such sensorhttp://imageshack.us/a/img405/503/201212301434401.jpghttp://imageshack.us/a/img707/9492/201212301434561.jpg

can some one hook me up with a header:D

Well After getting in my f23a. I cranked first with the dizzy unplugged to get the oil first to circulate. went back and plugged it back up. The moment of "truth". Fired up, with a unstable idle and gave 3 codes humm; Whats going on . So pulled the codes it was Egr, Tdc, and Iac. So went and fixed the first 2. Found out the Egr was a vacuum fixed,Tdc well of course i had the dizzy unplugged. But the third, (Iac); That's the part i need help because i used the obd2 mani and it is a 3 wire Iac. CAN some one give a explanation why obd2 uses 3 wires and obd1 2 wires so i can get it to work???????:mad:

What throttle body are you using, F22 or F23?

Three-wire IACV controls fast idle and normal idle. The F22 has a FITV on the throttle body, the F23 doesn't. The swaps I've seen use an F22 throttle body on the F23 manifold and adapt the two-wire IACV to fit on that manifold with an adapter. Pics: F23 Swap in Gen 5. Other swaps I've seen use a throttle body spacer to move the TPS far enough away from the IACV nipples to install the coolant lines without that convoluted plumbing.

well i used the f22 throttle with the old thermal valve bolts right up but the mani is still f23.

Which IACV, two- or three-wire?